Hi Bob,
Just yank out the generator and voltage regulator and take them to a machine
shop. I got mine tested for free while I watched and the guy let me know the
output voltage and if they were working properly. It only took about 10
minutes to yank them both. (My charging problem turned out to be a bad
battery and a amp meter hooked up backwards).
Dave Camp
49 3600
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Chansler" <rchansle@us.ibm.com>
To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2002 1:36 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] trouble with voltage regulator
> I purchased a 51 burb a few weeks ago and have been slowly getting it
> going. It came with a 58 235 engine. I had to jump start it whenver I
> wanted to start it as the battery wouldnt hold a charge. When I finally
put
> a volt meter to the battery it measured 9 volts. The battery had 4 cells
in
> so I assumed it was a 12 volt battery with one dead cell ( I thought all
12
> volt batteries had 6 cells.) . Up until then I thought it was a 6 volt car
> still. I took off one of the headlights and it was a 12 volt. I'm still
> trying to decide what is still 6 volt and what has been changed, it seems
> nothing is ever marked (try to find anywhere on a battery that says 12
> volts).
>
> Anyway, I bought a new 12 volt battery and the thing fires right up and
> runs good. Now for the questions:
>
> When I turn on the key, the amp meter is centered. I can turn on the
> headlights and see a small move toward discharge. But, after I start the
> car it reads major discharge when idling. It's to the left of the first
> mark on the guage. I can hear the regulator clicking and see the needle
> bouncing up and down. If I rev the engine the clicking stops, but the
> needle only rises a little, never getting even close to the center mark. I
> measured the output from the generator and its about 11 volts at idle and
> 14 when reving. Could this be a 6 volt regulator, or it it just not
> functioning correctly? It looks fairly new and it looks different that the
> old 6 volt one I have from another truck. How can I tell if its a 12 volt
> reg? I suppose I could have a major short somewhere, but that should show
> up when I turn on the key without starting it.
>
> Second question: There isnt any ballast resitor betweent the coil and
> battery. Is this a problem? Should I add one? What happens if I drive it
> without one?
>
> Last question: I have an oil tube running around the back of the engine
and
> entering in the middle of the left wide. Isnt this indicative of hydraulic
> lifters? It sure sounds different that my '56 235 engine.
>
> Bob Chansler
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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