Even if you can snug up the fitting, the threads may be sort of stripped.
the threads actually help make the seal. I would try all new lines (i.e.
new flares, etc) and new fittings. look inside the inlet, is the seat where
the fitting should seal smooth and flush, may have been damaged by over
tightening. if so, then you either have to have a machinist fix it or find
a new carb. it could be leaking between the line and fitting also, another
reason to get new of each.
also, is there any side torque on the line after it's tightened, make sure
the line lines up nice before threading it in, you shouldn't have to hold it
in place to get is started. any side pressure may cause a leak, especially
if everything isn't just right with the threads and seat.
good luck
Brian
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Dana Muise
> Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 4:15 PM
> To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Leaking carb
>
>
> The fitting isn't stripped, it's snung. It's hard to tell
> where the leak is
> orginating. It looks like it's between the carb and the brass
> fuel line
> fitting. It leaks alot while running, but the heat causes it
> to evaporate
> when it gets to the intake manifold. When I stop the engine
> it leaks for a
> few hours then stops (dribbles all the way down to the
> exhaust manifold).
> The carb always weeps from the halfs.
>
> > If you tightened the brass fitting too tight then you will
> cause a gap.
> Or
> > the threads are stripped. Is it coming from the end of the
> fitting or
> where
> > the fitting is in the carb body? Possible too much fuel
> pressure. Does
> > this occur when the engine is hot or cold? Running or stopped?
> >
> > Jon
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between
> 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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