I have found that on automotive 6/12 volt batteries, if a battery lasts over
36 months you are doing well. Battery life depends greatly on maintenance,
environment, and service. Ensure the terminals and battery are free of
corrossion and dirt/grease, etc. Ensure cables and terminals are of good
quality and have solid connections to battery, frame, and engine. There's
nothing like installing a new battery to then find you have a bad ground.
Always maintain water levels unless its a maintenance free type.
Temperature extremes and servere current draw/load will cause shortened life.
Ensure the battery you are using is service rated for the job it is intended
to do.
ALWAYS wear face/eye/hand protection!! Battery acid burns and is corrossive.
You may not notice it right off, but you will soon! Good ol' Arm & Hammer
baking soda and water solution will delute the acid. Keep it on hand. If you
get acid on your skin, rinse with the water/baking soda solution immediately.
Wash all tools in contact with the acid, don't forget volt meter leads and if
you get it on your clothes rinse the area in the baking soda/water solution or
when you pull them out of the wash they'll be full of holes where the acid was
at.
If you do not have a maintenance free battery, a specific gravity tester
will show battery condition. One thing to check on is that all cells read
realitively the same. If one or more cells are lower in specific gravity, that
indicates that this particular cell is losing its ability to maintain a
charge, causing the other cells to work harder under load, increasing battery
failure. Specific gravity should be at 1.250 or greater on a fully charged
battery. As stated; when testing, if one cell in the group is at 1.200 for
example it is losing it's potencial to maintain a charge. If all cells read
low and are not far off from each other, the battery needs charged. After
charge if all cells or not higher and still the same, or if the one or more
lower cells are still lower than the rest, the battery is soon to fail.
You can also check the voltage between each cell. Starting at negative , go
from the negative post to inside the closest cell (neg to pos), then from cell
to cell, and cell to positive post. A 6 volt battery will have all the
readings add up to 6 volts approximately, a 12 volt battery to 12 volts and
on. It should on a good battery always be more than the battery voltage, (
6.4V or 12.9v). If one cell has a lower voltage or shows 0v, there is your
bad/dead cell.
You can also load test the battery, most auto parts stores will do this for
free, but if you put a meter across the battery and start the engine you
should not drop more that 2 volts on a good battery and starter. Generally 1-1
1/2 volts. If you drop more than 2, again it will not be too far off to
failure. With the meter on the battery after start up you can see the charge
output of the alternator as well. You do not want over 15 volts constantly
into the battery or it will over heat and cause severe loss of service life.
It is always good to check voltages and specific gravity. You may have a
starter going out, drawing too much amperage. A good starter should draw no
more than 300 amps. But an amp meter capable of handling this load will be
needed to check this. Also ensure your battery is rated at the load required
for the application. When batteries are new, the required amount of acid is
already in the battery. If a dry cell is purchased, it will come with the acid
to be added, that is the amount that is required.
When the cells become low, it is the water mixed with the acid that
evaperates due to heat,the chemical reaction to make the charge, and
environment. Always add more water. Never add more acid. If a battery is
overheated and boils off all or most of the acid, get a new battery. You can
tell when this happens due to the rotten egg smell. Some may say use additives
or add more electolyte (acid), but just get a new battery. I have never seen
one last long after this. You will be better off.
I hope this helps.
Steve
slstu@msn.com
'51 3100
St Peters, MO
----- Original Message -----
From: McGillis@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2001 11:52 AM
To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: [oletrucks] Battery Life 6V and 12V
Is there a battery expert on the list? Most of us would like to know about
this.
The 12V battery in my daily driver is 39 months old. Experience has taught
me that batteries die shortly after 36 months, no matter what the guarantee
says. Is there any reason not to just replace it and save the trouble of
having it die away from home? The 6V battery in my 1936 Chevy pickup is 5
years old, should I replace it?
Years ago batteries seemed to fail slowly over a period of days, now it is
always a surprise and away from home. Is there a way to tell when a battery
is nearing end of life?
Thanks,
Dennis McGillis
1936 Lowcab (36 TRUCK)
1955 Cameo (V8 CAMEO)
Vintage Chevrolet Club of America
Orange County (CA) Region
949-551-4821 phone
949-551-1162 fax
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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