>From the archives .... attached
Tom Poterack
Moline, IL.
'49 Chevy Pickup Retro Rod
http://community.webtv.net/TOMPOT/TOMS1949CHEVYPICKUP
http://community.webtv.net/TOMPOT/OLTRUKINTERIORUPDATE
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Message-ID: <004201c0a46a$40cf7400$6a78fea9@rfbc>
From: "Andy Johns" <andy51chevy@mindspring.com>
To: "Bill Current" <bcurrent@csu.org>, "oletrucks"
<oletrucks@autox.team.net>
References: <3A9FEC59.3AACD153@csu.org>
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] IFS options S-10
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 00:15:45 -0500
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Reply-To: "Andy Johns" <andy51chevy@mindspring.com>
Bill,
This is my first real contribution to the list. I've finally learned
enough to answer something!
I have a 1951 halfton and I'm in the process of putting an S-10 frame
under it. It is going very well, especially considering this is my first
rebuild project ever. It has many similar advantages to a Camaro clip or
Mustang IFS including power brakes, power steering, independent spring
suspension and lowering the truck. The major differences with the S-10 are
the cost, simplicity, and keeping the truck the same. For the truck, I
bought the frame with power brakes, a rearend, steering column, gas tank,
transmission crossmember and motor mounts for $450. I didn't need the
rearend or column, which were about $150 of that. I should have gotten the
S-10 brake pedal and gas pedal/ throttle linkage while I was at it instead
of going back later. I then ordered a You-weld-it V8 motor mount set for
S-10 from Jags that Run for $45. Then it was easy to put the 350 engine in.
With a simple homemade adapter piece, the 350 autotrans fit on the s-10
tranny crossmember. The S-10 rearend can't handle a V8 so I put in the
rearend from the donor car with 4 U-bolts. Some angle iron and wood blocks
to mount the cab, and raising the bed floor two inches and the body is
mounted. The 1951 radiator bracket is bolted right on to the frame rails
(if you use the '51 radiator like me). The wheel base OF A LONG BED 83-88
is about 3/4 of an inch different from the 1951's. The S-10 has to be long
bed, an extended cab might work, but no guarantees. We cut off about 10
inches of the frame behind the rear axle. The truck has a much lower stance
(about 6 inches off the ground in low spots). Running boards are the next
body part after the engine work and wiring and they might be tough. Don't
know about bumpers either. The S-10 gas tank is mounted to the frame behind
the cab, perfect for a filler neck to come up through the wood in the bed.
This eliminates the gas tank in the cab problem.
To do the swap it requires some good old American ingenuity, but not
tons of car knowledge. It is discouraging for the truck to be in many
pieces. With a different steering column, and a steering shaft extension,
and a Power steering pump on the engine, I have power steering, power
brakes, and IFS for less than $500. This also keeps the suspension all s-10
for easy parts. MY TRUCK IS NOT CURRENTLY ON THE ROAD, however I hope to
have it that way by the end of the month. S-10 seems to make to much sense
to me to do it any other way. It also gives me a huge sense of
accomplishment to feel like I built it ground up. If you have any
questions, I'm here, happy to answer all of them.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Current <bcurrent@csu.org>
To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2001 1:54 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] IFS options for newbe...
> Hello everyone, I have been 'listening' to this forum for a while and am
> real happy I found this place.
>
> I have recently come into a 52 Chevy pickup that is in pretty good
> condition body wise, but is missing things like motor, tranny, etc. I
> have always wanted to make a street rod out of an old pickup and now I
> have the chance. I have been reading through tons of info on IFS
> systems, but would like to hear from those who have actually do it.
> What is your feeling on doing the crossmember kits vs doing the cut and
> hack to put in a whole new front clip? Also, if doing the front clip,
> which ones are better? I have seen articles about using Mustang II,
> Camaro/nova, later model trucks, etc. I would like to find a solution
> that gives the best performance for handling and daily driving but easy
> to maintain and find parts less expensively. Also, somewhere I read
> that an S10 frame is very close to the 52's so could I swap the whole
> S10 frame under the 52?
>
> I hope I have posted this correctly, please feel free to correct any
> thing I have done wrong.
>
> Thanks in advance for all the help so far and in the future.
> Bill C.
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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