I have used the torch and putty knoife method, and it works well but just
remember you are only softening the undercoating not making it liquid. If
you heat the metal too much you can actually make it warp, not the frame
obviously but body panels can. After you get most of it
off and AFTER! you have put the torch away. You can use
a rag with enamel reducer to remove the rest of the residue, this does two
things, removes the remaining undercoating and also cleans and preps the
surface for paint.
Jeff Cerniglia
1959 GMC Fleetside
1954 Dodge M37
1957 4dr Chevrolet Belair
1977 Susuki GS750 (for sale)
>From: "Bob Chansler" <rchansle@us.ibm.com>
>Reply-To: "Bob Chansler" <rchansle@us.ibm.com>
>To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
>Subject: [oletrucks] How to remove interior trim
>Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 13:10:25 -0600
>
>In my 49 'burb there are metal trim pieces around the inside of the rear
>wheel wells. They are L shaped pieces that finish off the floor. There are
>about 10 carriage bolts attaching the trim to the floor. I have removed all
>the bolts, but the pieces won't budge. I tapped a putty knife under the
>edges around the floor, but these things are real tight. Anybody with an AD
>'burb know how to remove these? I don't want to damage them too much
>getting them off. I need to get them out of the way to repair the sheet
>metal underneath them.
>
>Another question...whats's the best way to get undercoating off. On the
>frame, I'm tempted to remove the loose stuff with a putty knife and paint
>over the rest. Someone suggested a propane torch and a putty knife on the
>underside of the fenders.
>
>Bob Chansler
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
_________________________________________________________________
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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