Getting that nut out of the 18MM socket...
You'll need the following tools:
2 pipe wrenches
1-12" Crescent wrench
1-5# sledge hammer
1-wheel lug attached to a '53 Chevy truck
1 qt. Jack Daniels
1-3' 1/2" drive breaker bar
1 propane torch
Using the breaker bar, spin the nut on the lug attached to the truck.
Heat the nut/socket combo to a cherry red color and cinch it down
real tight using the breaker bar. Allow to cool...
-----Original Message-----
From: Hanlon, Bill [mailto:Bill.Hanlon@COMPAQ.com]
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2001 4:51 PM
To: 'Jim House'; RobertHeil@hellausa.com; 'Oletrucks (E-mail)'
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Lug Nut Removal
No need to remove the nut from the socket because the socket is
probably ruined anyway.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim House [mailto:jhouse@ccsolution.com]
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2001 3:27 PM
To: RobertHeil@hellausa.com; 'Oletrucks (E-mail)'
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Lug Nut Removal
Well the deed is done. You should see the swelling on my left hand - how
did you know. I nailed it really well with the 5 lb sledge right into the
rim. Since I can still move the finger to type I guess it is not busted.
In all I used 2 pipe wrenches, a 12" crescent wrench, the vice grips and
half a bottle of the Coleman fuel from the stove. After, working with all
of these tools I had a nice round circle on the stud. Since I am in the
eastern time zone I skipped the Jack. Then I broke down and got the 1/2"
socket and the metric set. Then I pounded one onto the stub and it spun
right off. I just have one follow-up question - How can I get the nut out
of the 18MM socket?
Thanks,
Jim House
46 Chevy 3104
Hollis, NH
Did you see that an American in the top 10 at the Marathon!!!! Wow things
are changing.
-----Original Message-----
From: RobertHeil@hellausa.com [mailto:RobertHeil@hellausa.com]
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2001 2:29 PM
To: Jim House; Oletrucks (E-mail)
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Lug Nut Removal
Alright Jim!
Rounded those babies over real good, huh?
Finally a question I can answer from personal experience!!
Step #1: You have to find that set of 1/2" drive, deep set, METRIC sockets
you bought at the Bargain Barn years ago (just cause you couldn't pass up a
really good deal). We all have them, but never use them except in this
case.
Step #2: You have to soak the offending lug in PB Blaster or Gibbs or
preferably 1/4 oz. of Jack Daniels. (Don't be too hasty to put the bottle
away.)
Step #3: Let the lug juice soak in for about 20 minutes. In the mean time
begin sipping heavily on the the Jack. (You'll understand why later).
Also find a heavy leather glove for your left hand. If you are right
handed, it must fit your LEFT hand!!
Step #4: Choose one of those cheap Chinese unused metric sockets, slightly
smaller in diameter than the offending lug. Find a 5 lb. mal hammer, and
attempt to tap the under-sized socket onto the lug nut. Of course it won't
fit, and will need some coaxing. Hit it a little harder....a little
harder....harder still. Don't worry about breaking that #19 socket cause
you'll never use it again, probably for the rest of your natural life. Now
hit it one more time REAL HARD!
Did you remember to put the glove on your your left hand yet?? (Sorry
'bout that, but the Jack should help reduce the sting and the swelling.)
Steps #5 & 6: I call this part, "Bring on the Heat". After you have
successfully engaged the socket onto the lug nut in question, and properly
bandaged your left hand, find the Benzine bottle-torch you haven't used in
3 years. Of course the bottle is empty, so we will wait till you run to
FLAPS to buy full bottle. In the event that more than 1/3 of the Jack has
been consumed, please send the wife, and/or significant other (and this is
important: With the empty bottle as a guide). After 2 hours has elapsed,
and you have consumed the balance of the Jack, ("I figured as long as I
was in town I'd stop at Krogers, and Penny's, and the drug store, blah,
blah, blah.") you are ready to fire up the torch and bring on the heat. Of
course the "spark-o-starter" has long since disappeared, so use your trusty
Bic lighter. Once you have successfully ignited the torch, start laying on
the heat to the socket/lug combo. Once you have achieved a nice cherry red
glow to this assembly, (remember this could take a while as you have a 17lb
heat-sink called a brake drum attached to it) attach the 1/2" drive breaker
bar (or as was my case, go get the bar and repeat "bring on the heat") and
start "reefin' " down (as in counter clock-wise) on that bar.
THE LUG SHOULD MOVE.
Average elapsed time (You won't find this in the Hollander Labor manual): 3
hours, 27 minutes. This does not include clean up time or the follow up
visit to the emergency care clinic to have you left hand examined.
Rememeber, we care, and we only want to help!
Bob Heil
'51 3600 in pieces
"Jim House"
<jhouse@ccsolution.c To: "Oletrucks
\(E-mail\)"
om> <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent by: cc:
owner-oletrucks@auto Subject: [oletrucks] Lug
Nut Removal
x.team.net
04/16/01 11:29 AM
Please respond to
"Jim House"
Well it was bound to happen. Most of my lug nuts are well rounded. When I
try to remove the bad ones to replace them with junk yard replacements I
can
not get one lug off. I can get a grip on it with my vice-grips but I can
not get it to break free. In the past I have had all of the lugs off. Any
ideas on how to get the one free....
Thanks,
Jim House
46 Chevy 3104
Hollis, NH - wow it warm (55 degrees) and I can see 90% of my yard - the
snow is almost gone;>
Happy Patriots Day all!
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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