On an AD, you do not trim the window rubber to fit. The rubber comes
completely closed at both ends and the right size to fit in the opening. I
can attest to what happens when people hack the rubber to fit. It shrinks
over a short period of time and then water pours into the hole and rusts out
the entire area of the truck. If you found a vendor that has just lengths of
rubber, be sure to cut the rubber extra long or what looks fine now will
turn into a very expensive nightmare of rewelding floor, gas tank, cab and
replacing any hardware in the waters path inside the cab. I am doing a truck
as we speak where this was the problem. Taken me the last 3 months of
replacing almost all the entire cab sheet metal as a result. Dash, side
cowls, all floor panels, gas tank, gas tank mounts, floor supports, behind
the gas tank and under it, lower door sheet metal, lower door hinge cab
sheet metal ALL RUINED and requiring rewelding due to someone using a length
of rubber rather than buying the correct item. The damage I describe would
be normal with the windows out, but they were IN!
Original point being, the vendors have totally closed window rubber that
requires no cutting or trimming. Only the lock strip will require that
(again cut it extra long and caulk the ends). Its the way to go!
Deve Krehbiel
Hesston, Kansas
1950 3100 * 1949 3600 * 1948 4400 * 50 3100
www.speedprint.com/Deves50/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mac Kinghorn" <kinghorn@granite.mb.ca>
To: "oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2001 9:46 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] Installing Windows
> Read this with interest as I had similar problems when I installed my back
> window. Spoke to one of the neighbors that luckily ran the body shop for
> one of the major Ni---n Dealers in town and he came over and gave me a
hand.
> First off don't be cheap with the dish soap when putting the window into
the
> rubber. Secondly, and this sounds like the problem in Mike Klepp's case,
> once the window is in the rubber it may still have to be pushed forward
into
> the cab to get it centered in the opening. If the glass is not pushed in
> far enough you will have a real Bit-- of a time getting the lock strip in.
> Once you have the window centered in the rubber the lock strip tool will
> work quite well and although the lock strip is a bit tough to put in it
> should go in fairly easily. again use plenty of dish soap mix in the
groove
> as it will help the tool to slide and the lock strip slip into place. One
> question did you use any kind of rubber cement on the ends of the window
> rubber after you had trimmed it to fit. Another thing is do not put the
end
> of the lock strip anywhere in the area of the split in the window gasket.
> Preferably the window rubber split should be approximately bottom center
and
> the lock strip split should be on the top center of the window gasket.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Mac
> 52 Chev 1300
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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