I had my head pulled and rebuilt this summer (216). The first thing I would
recommend doing is to megiflex the head. You do not want to have the head
redone and put back in a cracked head. Have the megiflex done PRIOR to any
work. I was not lucky and had a crack in my head. The shop that was doing
the work had 2 NOS heads in storage in the barn and I got one of them for
$100.00. The guy was set up in business by his dad in the 60's - the old
Chevy dealer and gave him all of the parts that he thought he could never
use or sell. He has a barn of a lot of good old stuff.
Good Luck,
Jim House
41 Chevy 3104
Hollis, NH
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Michael Lubitz
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2001 9:33 PM
To: Old chevy truck advice
Cc: Bob Adler
Subject: [oletrucks] Buddy misbehavin'
Guys,
Again thanks for all the help.
I did a compression test and found that all of the cylinders were about 100
pounds except for No. 4 which was about 50. I am going to take the head
off,
get it rotted out, and then have the valves redone on No. 4 only.
Does this sound like a good plan?
With this fix, I am hoping to start going the other way and start putting
things back together with a heat riser that works, a valve job that should
give the cylinders about the same compression, a rebuilt fuel pump, a
rebuilt
carb, . . . geesh this should work, yes? If not I'll ask again and do more
to get Buddy behavin'.
With a babbit bearing non-pressurized oil system, does it make sense to use
an
oil additive to increase lubrication. Anzoil, or the Teflon products, or
some
other snake oil?
As a post script, I am having a ball doing most of the work myself.
Michael Lubitz
1946 Chevy 3/4 ton stock
1948 Chevrolet 3100, soon to be deluxe
Austin, Texas
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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