Hmmm. Sounds very possible.
I'm lazy and trying not to get into pulling manifolds (and repairing all
the studs I'll break). The lever is attached and is moving but is it doing
anything?
I know the base of the carb frosts up for a while but that goes away but I
don't know if the inside of the carb is frosted over.
Is the flapper mechanically attached to the lever or is it 'persuaded' by
the lever and actually controlled by a spring? Mine looks as if it has a
generic spring that has been 'shortened' by wrapping it around a bolt and
then back to the flapper.
Lastly - should I be running a Zenith carb (my spare) or the Carter that is
on the truck?
Thanks for the help.
At 07:50 AM 1/3/01, you wrote:
>I have a 54 2-ton that does all the things you say and much worse when
>first driving. I even let it warm-up awhile before driving. It frosts up
>the carb, dies at stop signs, runs rougher, etc. If I drive longer so it
>warms it's ok. When it gets up to 25 or 30 it runs much better. With my
>question on the list and answers most think it is my exhaust heat-riser
>flapper valve that is open all the time and I'm not getting warm exhaust
>air to heat carb till the rest is quite warm under hood. I haven't checked
>the riser yet, but will. In the summer I have no probs whatever.
>
>G. L. Perry
>Huntington, IN
>54 Chevy 2-ton (driver)
>50 Chevy COE (project)
>55 GMC COE (project)
>MM Jet Star 3 (tractor)
CHRIS in Tennessee
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ICQ: 5944649
'78 Westy (maybe some CIS injection,Corvair, turbos --- hmmmm...)
'65 Beetle (Type IV powered)
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