Grinding?????
I've had a small block in my AD for over 20 years and the stock starter
will not work in the high heat area with the stock small block starter
solenoid. I had to buy a high temp solenoid to eliminate the heating
problem and at the same time went to the high output starter. The high
output starter can be identified by the brass spacer between the starter and
solenoid. You may also need to add a second ground cable from the block to
the frame because it sounds like a resistance problem.
If it's grinding all the time then you may in fact have to shim the starter
to eliminate the problem. Are you measuring the distance from the starter
shaft where the gear comes out to engage the flywheel to the flywheel teeth?
If I recall you make a go, no go gauge to get the required distance. I
usually set up the distance at 1/8".
You may have to shim only one side of the starter to get the correct
distance.
Joe Garcia
Yuba City, CA
1950 Chevrolet 3100
http://chevy1.freeservers.com/
http://50chevy.freeserver.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Culver <sculver@iwl.net>
To: oletrucks list <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, July 28, 2000 7:04 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] 350 starter problem
>First of all, thanks to all who gave me the great info on the S-10
>transmission.
>
>Now I have a question regarding the starter on the '58. It has a 350
>engine, and when the engine reaches operating temperature, the starter just
>grinds, and won't engage. I changed the starter, and it does the same
>thing. Also tried it with and without the shims, and it continues to grind
>when the engine is hot. Anyone have any ideas? There is one broken tooth
>on the flywheel that I am aware of.
>
>Thanks-
>
>Smokey Culver
>'50 3600 5-window (mine)
>'58 Apache (hers)
>League City, Texas
>
>
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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