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Re: [Re: [oletrucks] Rust "converter"]

To: BRUCE ROEDEL <broedel@usa.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: [oletrucks] Rust "converter"]
From: jls <jls@seavcom.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 15:12:40 -0700 (PDT)
I happen to work next to a guy who has a nac for chemicals.
He suggested oxalic acid available at some hardware stores or is in the
cleanser "Zud" available at your local Safeway or QFC.

He also suggested amonia to clean the metal afterwards.


On 20 Jun 2000, BRUCE ROEDEL wrote:

> I concur with Keith. Phosphoric acid, if you can get it, works great. I think
> the phosphorus combines with the ferric oxide (rust) to form ferrous
> phosphate. My chemistry is a little rusty (he he).
> 
> Bruce Roedel
> '58 Fleetside
> 
> "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com> wrote:
> > I don't believe in that stuff. I use phosphoric acid which removes the rust
> > and leaves a phosphate coating. This does not seal it; it has to be
> > topcoated.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Scott Lent <scott.lent@tamut.edu>
> > To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 7:33 AM
> > Subject: [oletrucks] Rust "converter"
> > 
> > 
> > > Does anyone have firsthand experience with the rust "converter"
> substances
> > > now on the market?  (You know, the ones that allegedly penetrate and
> > > convert the rust to an inert material and seal the surface...)  I know
> > > there are a number of the products out there, but am also aware that at
> > > least one does not "work as advertised."  I'm looking for "yes, I used
> > > Brand A on my xx and have had no problems" or "I used Brand B on my xx
> and
> > > it was worthless," not "so-and-so said..." or "I read in a magazine."
> > >
> > > Much appreciated!
> > >
> > > Scott...
> > >
> > > Scott Lent
> > > 1956 Chevrolet 3100
> > > Texarkana, Texas
> > > http://www.tigger.tamut.edu/slent/
> > >
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> > >
> > 
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> 
> 
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> 

Thanks,
-JLS


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