Grant,
The brake lathes had a feature that would hold the shoe in a clamping device
that would swivel gently into a rotating abrasive wheel. The raduis of the
drums was set on the clamping device. Again, we did not worry about the
ensuing dust cuz no one knew it was hazardous, I guess.
It you were to draw a chord on the inside of the shoe and mount the shoe
with screws or ?? onto a 12" X 12" (+ or -) piece of 3/4" plywood, could you
find the pivot point of a circle whose radius is close to the radius of the
inside of the drum? If so, then placing a pin (screw or nail) through this
point to a platform below could be the beginning of a jig to "arc" the shoe
against a belt sander. Who knows, it could work. Be sure that the sander
is square to the shoe.
Remember that good advice is to brake gently for the first few hundred miles
after a brake job on drum brakes to allow the shoes to seat themselves into
the drum. They will automatically conform to the new radius or, for that
matter, any groove or other imperfection in the drum. So if you miss radius
a little, the shoes will get good bite in a while as the shoe wears a
little. And you should still get 30,000 or more miles from the drum brake
job.
Again, we did not fear lessening the life or strength of the drum brakes by
arcing as the tighter fit of drum to shoe is going to happen anyway as the
shoe wears.
Michael
'48 3100, more rod than original
----- Original Message -----
From: "G. Simmons" <gls@4link.net>
To: "Michael Lubitz" <mlrba@texas.net>; "Old chevy truck advice"
<oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2000 12:27 AM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Brakes
> Thanks, Michael. Not sure how to do this. I suspect I'd botch it. Is
> there a method to figure where to relieve? What's the best method of
> removing material?
>
> Grant
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
>
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