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Deve -
If you used Mil-P-8585A Zinc Chromate primer for your MIL spec Primer or
something similar then you have done the best that you could probably
given you are working out of your garage. If you top that with epoxy
primer and 2 package urethane topcoat it should be somethin' to see!!
I must caution you not to use peanut butter as a rust preventative
unless it is Skippy "Smooth not Chunky" 'cause you will have lumps in
your black topcoat. Don't be removing all the oxygen from your garage
or you might "wake up dead"!
My daddy told me that the best thing about free "expert" advice is that
it is "FREE" and not necessarily accurate!
All kiddin' aside it sounds like you are doing a great job.
-
Tom Poterack
'49 Chevy 3600
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Message-ID: <004601bfa85c$c08284e0$d4de5e18@kscable.com>
From: "Deve Krehbiel" <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>
To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
References: <27274-38FA34F0-7753@storefull-246.iap.bryant.webtv.net>
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Paint Primer
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 06:04:50 -0500
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Reply-To: "Deve Krehbiel" <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>
This is true. I am just following what the experts told me to do.. they
werent too big into phosphatizing. Its probably because of the industries
variable expertness to begin with. Ask 100 "experts" and get 200 different
answers. So, I do that and then play the percentages.. If 70% or better come
to a close conclusion, then that must be a pretty good path to follow. Fact
is, I wish I had known more about phosphatizing before I primered, but so
many body shops don't use it at all, that it was never even brought up by
ANY of them. The metal was very very clean, all precautions were taken
before primering, and then a really good MIL-spec aircraft grade etching
primer was used in preference to a standard primer. Time will tell if my
paint job holds up.
As far as wether primer stops rust? Peanut butter will stop rust. The key is
to remove the elements that cause rust.. one being oxygen. Proof of this is
everywhere there was paint on the old truck, there was no rust. Remove the
paint, you get rust. Had they done this thorough of job of primering in
1950, the job would have lasted 100 years. My next primer coats will be
epoxy primer and then Urethane top coat. 3 coats of everything will make 9
coats that oxygen and the elements will have to get thru. Of course this may
change if I add clear coat to the equation since my wish is to paint the
truck black. I am sticking my neck WAAY out choosing black since it shows
everything, but I just like it and I am willing to go to the extra trouble.
Thanks for the input and please keep it coming!!
Deve
50 3100
49 3600
www.speedprint.com/Deves50/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: <Tom3600@webtv.net>
To: "Deve Krehbiel" <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>
Cc: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2000 4:47 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Paint Primer
> Deve -
>
> I hate to tell you this but if you are just spraying the SWP product on
> and then wiping it off you are only cleaning the surface of the metal
> and doing very little actual phosphatizing. The key here is that you
> said the SWP product was a cleaner and phosphatizer. This is probably a
> fine product for cleaning but to actually put an iron phosphate coating
> on the surface of the metal you must not wipe off the coating until it
> "cures" and leaves a grayish film. On the other hand if you have excess
> iron phosphate in recessed areas and runs under bolts and bolt holes,
> you must remove this excess or you will have adhesion failure in the
> future. It ain't simple.
> Rubber gloves (not plastic or latex), eye protection and something to
> protect you from inhaling the fumes is a MUST!
>
> -
> Tom Poterack
> '49 Chevy 3600
>
>
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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