On Tue, 28 March 2000, "Nelson, Jeff - DTC" wrote:
>
> On these older vehicles that did not have overflow tanks as standard
> equipment, you should not fill the radiator all the way to the top. If you
> look, the radiator should have a fill line about 1 1/2" down from the bottom
> of the neck. If you fill the radiator all the way to the top, it will
> definitely tend to overflow as the fluid expands.
>
> Jeff Nelson
> 1953 3600
> Paducah, KY
>
> PS The AD models did have an optional overflow condenser that mounted on the
> firewall. I've never seen a real one, just pictures.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Hollis Troop12 [SMTP:hollisbsa@hotmail.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2000 9:15 AM
> > To: dph55@PDQ.net; oletrucks@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] radiators and cooling
> >
> > Would it be a good investment to get some kind of overflow tank and
> > connect
> > it to the hose that spits on the driveway? Would this them pull back the
> > fluid it expelled? Or would I need to hook up something like my van has
> > with a hose connected under the radiator cap? Long term what will these
> > overflows do the hottop?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Jim House
> > 46 3104 Chevy
> >
> > >From: "dph55@pdq.net" <dph55@PDQ.net>
> > >Reply-To: "dph55@pdq.net" <dph55@PDQ.net>
> > >To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
> > >Subject: [oletrucks] radiators and cooling
> > >Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 08:44:26 -0600
> > >
> > >One more thing worthy of note is the fact that any radiator in any
> > vehicle
> > >having been driven a while and warmed throughly will when parked and shut
> >
> > >off
> > >experience a rise in temperature when the flow of coolant is stopped.
> > That
> > >will result in the burping on the driveway in the absence of coolant
> > >reservoir
> > >tanks.
> > >
> > >Dave Handlely
> > >51 5 window GMC
> > >
> > >I have a '55 1st series 3100 with the thriftmaster 235, the radiator cap
>is a low pressure cap of #4 lbs. I had the radiator recored a couple of years
>ago and the old timer who did it for me said that one of the biggest mistakes
>guys do to there cooling systems on these old trucks is to run a 50/50 mix
>year round. He told me to only use the 50/50 mix in the winter, and in the
>spring drain the cooling system and flush it out then, put 100% distilled or
>good quality drinking water in and add a rust inhibitor. (Do not use Tap
>water!) No anti-freeze in the warm months. Also, Jim Richardson of "My Classic
>Car" fame said the same exact thing in an artical he wrote about cooling
>systems and a total rebuild and hop up of the 235. I used to run the 50/50 mix
>myself all year and would have some over heating from time to time in the
>hottest parts of the summer. I even went so far as to take my thermostat out
>for the summer every year, but that did'nt really help. After I took the old
>timer's advise, and went to distilled water in my cooling system with a rust
>inhibitor, I have'nt had any more over heating problems! I also run a 160
>degree thermostat, but depending on where you live you can go with a 180
>degree too. Hope this helps you out some with your cooling problems!
Rick Warren
'55 1st series
> > >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> >
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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