In a message dated 3/13/00 3:55:25 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dkrehbiel@kscable.com writes:
> Welp, got all the sheet metal (fenders, hood, bed, CAB, and all the misc
> parts too big for my blast cabinet) back from Kansas Dry Strip today. I
> wasnt very impressed, but in their defense, I was probably expecting too
> much. I expected ALL rust, paint, and debris to be TOTALLY removed. What I
> got was all paint removed but no rust removed at all. This was VERY
> disappointing to me since about 60% of the project was rust. Now, I am
> forced to get out the wire brushes, sandpaper, etc and start over on each
> individual part. They say they use plastic beads to prevent warping and the
> promise that the owner would sue them for damages when the cab was all
> warped due to aggressive blasting. Plastic does not remove rust. I guess I
> am not on the same channel as the rest of the world. I am finding that if I
> want the job done to my satisfaction, I have to do it ALL myself regardless
> of my experience level. They say the body shops are impressed with their
> work (and they ARE since I asked them where they go) so it must be just me.
> I expect and WILL HAVE total rust removal and absolutely not one
microscopic
> particle of rust anywhere. Totally bare metal with NO exceptions WILL be
the
> requirement before I start priming. I have NO IDEA why anyone would expect
> less, but apparently the rest of the world isnt nearly as anal as me.
>
> So... I need a DA Sander. What is a good kind to get? Air or Electric? What
> grits do I use for rust removal and then for finishing?
>
> Thanks everyone.. my project just got extended another 2-3 months now that
I
> am sanding everything by hand. At least everything is back in my possession
> where it will get treated right and DONE right.
>
> Deve
> 50 3100
> 49 3600
Deve,
Depending on the amount of rust you have, sanding will take a long, long
time. If you have the outdoors area avialable I'd suggest you get
sandblaster and get with it. Sand blasting isn't rocket science, once you
begin to see fresh metal, move on and you won't warp anything.
I use dried sand from the lumber yard in 80 or 100# sacks, cost about 5
bucks a sack around here. I do the work in the coner of my yard with a large
16ftx32ft blue tarp to recapture as much sand as possible to reuse.
But, if you're intent on sanding it all down through the rust, I'd suggest
a decent name brand DA, Ingersoll Rand or Chicago Pnuematic on the upper end,
or Rodac (if they're still available) and Blackhawk on the lower end. I
definitely like the air DA's unless you can get an electric one with a
variable speed trigger.
Mike
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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