Rob, the NAPA seal is sourced from Victor and is probably as good as there
is to be had.
The 228 GMC doesn't have babbit bearings, they are all insert type. This was
from the days when GMC still used their own engine family and the
228/248/270/302 engines were considered to be a cut above the Chevy
stovebolts, especially for commercial use.
NAPA also sells a rear seal replacement kit that has all the tools required
to remove the old seal and snake in the new one. Instructions are pretty
complete but I don't think they mention loosening any but the rear main cap.
In fact you have to loosen them all to get the crank to drop down enough to
access the upper half of the seal. Do this carefully a little bit at a time
until there is access. With the pan off, it's a good time to remove the two
bolts that secure the timing cover from the inside, pull the cover and
replace the front seal as well. Often the front seal starts leaking after
the rear is replaced, probably because it gets stressed by dropping the
crank.
Jack / Winter Park FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Steinmetz" <rstein@sssnet.com>
To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 13, 1999 6:05 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] Rear main seal replacement
> Could someone explain how to replace a rear main seal in a 1950 228
GMC?
> The engine has babbit-poured bearings, and I am unsure how to take the
crank
> out without damaging the bearing surface. Is it possible to loosen all
the
> bearing caps to allow the crank to move out of the way of the rope seal?
> I bought a replacement rope seal from NAPA for the repair. Is this a
> good quality seal, or is there a better type available? I don't want to
do
> this job twice if I can help it.
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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