In a message dated 9/19/99 7:21:55 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Advdesign1
writes:
<< How about if you turn on your heater full. will that drop the engine
temp a few degrees? If so your radiator doesn't have enough capacity. But
you said the rad was new from one of the major suppliers. Is the engine
running too lean? >>
It doesn't matter if the heater is on or not. The temp is over 200° in about
15 minutes. I have a 1980 250 ci HEI distributor from, I believe H. P.
Autotech, it's been a while since I purchased it. The tag says it's 0° @
1100 centrifugal and 0° @ 4" Hg, set initial @ 10°. To set the timing I
lined up the ball on the flywheel with the pointer on the bell housing. Is
this correct? I'm also running the 6 volt starter with 12 volt electrics, it
cranks once and fires up. The Split Fire plugs are black and a little sooty,
which would be on the rich side, can't find a vacuum leak.
Thermostat housing, I've used both the Chev (heater outlet on the pass. side)
and currently have a GMC one with outlets on both sides ( for water heat to
both the Offy 2 X 1 intake manifold and heater) if I ever get that far
along. The water pump is from Patricks. There are two inlets for heater
hoses. I'm using the bottom one for the heater, it didn't have a plug in it
when purchased, the top has a pipe plug, that'll be the return for the water
heat from the manifold.
The flow through the radiator appears to be good, but it overheats whether
the cap is off or not. When it's off and the engine running and the coolant
level is about a 1/2" below the filler neck no coolant ever spills out, no
matter what the engine rpm is. Just lots of bubbles.
Thanks,
John.
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