I have been listening to this thread and would like to give my input.
I had the cab on my '53 mechanically stripped, there is a place in Sacramento
that
uses a non-warping no sand method for metal stripping. The cab came out with a
mechanical etch.
My neighbor across the street happens to be a professional auto painter. Here is
what I did with my cab after his recommendations and after the paint removal
stripping.
1. Fix dents with Evercoat light body filler (Great product 1000 times better
than
bondo)
2. A coat of Dupont's Vari Primer (Self etching primer)
3. A couple of coats of Dupont's URO Primer (Filler primer and build up)
4. A light spray of black guide coat primer
5. Block the primer with 320 wet sand paper to find imperfections, lows and
highs
6. Fix the imperfections and add another coat of Uro primer where needed.
7. Sand block again with 320 and 400 grit wet sand paper
Finally a few coats of Duponts basecoat (Cool white from '99 VW bug) and 3 coats
of dupont's clear coat. Still need to sand block and buff for perfect finish.
It looks marvelous so far even without the final sand blocking and buffing. I
will
post pictures as soon as the film comes back from processing and I have time to
scan them.
BTW: I almost forgot, my neighbor recommended a gold pearl effect on the dash. I
looks incredible, it changes color depending on light direction.
That's all,
Antonio,
'53 3100
miq@teleport.com wrote:
> Advdesign1@aol.com says:
> >
> > <<
> > My local PPG rep says that sandblasted metal is etched better than any
> > etching primer can do so etching primer can be eliminated when priming
> > sandblasted surfaces.
> >
> > Bob (Adler) and others, do you agree with this theory? >>
> >
> > I've heard it both ways. Etching primer gives a chemical bond whild epoxy
> > gives only physical bond. Etching primer neutralizes microscopic rust left
> > after blasting.
>
> When I was prepping the '53 cab for paint I did both, well actually I did
> this:
>
> 1) chemical strip the exterior
> 2) DA sand with 60 grit to get rid of old bondo
> 3) cut out rusty bits, patch in new panels where needed (cab corners 1 fender)
> 4) spray with etching primer
> 5) sand with 150 grit wet/dry (dry no water)
> 6) spray with epoxy sealant primer
> 7) apply plastic filler where needed (couple of golf ball dings)
> 8) spray with epoxy filler primer (the heavy red oxide stuff)
> 9) sand with 220 grit wet dry (dry, no water)
> 10+) spray with skimmer coats of primer (lighter coat, dull grey about 3)
> 11+) sanded with 220 grit between each skimmer coat
> 16) spray with color prep primer (pale yellow, similar to final coat
> 17) sanded with 400 grit wet dry (wet this time)
>
> A lot of work? yeah, but the truck has a paint job you can shave in.
>
> One other neat thing, the bed wood was made with 2x8's tongue-n-groove like
> is used in barns, and the bed sides were painted with the same color
> prepped primer, then the bed was coated with a spray in bedliner that is
> transparent. its just as thick and tuff as the black stuff in my '57, but
> you can see all the bits underneath. It looks kinda like a really thick
> coating of polyurethane.
>
> In case anyone is wondering, this is the '53 with a 292 and th250 that my
> wife uses "for gardening".
>
> --
> __
> Miq Millman miq@teleport.com
> Tualatin, OR
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|