Jeff, your pinion angle would be determined by the centerline angle of the
engine/trans. The angles should be equal but opposite. check out
http://www.classictruckshop.com/
how-to projects/driveline 101
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Davis <jsd51@hotmail.com>
To: paulblosser@earthlink.net <paulblosser@earthlink.net>;
oletrucks@autox.team.net <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, July 16, 1999 4:39 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Wow -- I'm making some headway now!
>Paul,
>
> When I installed the rearend in my '51 I used a rearend out of a '84
>camaro (disc brakes) and leaf springs out of a '79 firebird. Believe the
>rearend to be a little wide but intend to counter that with offset wheels.
>The one learning experience I did have was that the "new" leafsprings are
>much more foregiving than the stock ones. So you can't just mount them in
>the same location as the old ones. After making new shakle hangers for the
>rear (new springs 2 1/2" wide) ,tacking in the front shackles, setting the
>rearend in place, putting on tires, and then adding the approx. bed
>weight(me and the old rearend) I discovered that the rear shackles rolled
>clear around to where they were only about an inch from the frame. Needless
>to say that it wouldn't take much of a bump in the road to bounce the back
>end of the leaf spring off the frame.Sooooo, took every thing apart,cut and
>ground all the welds, moved the front shackle forward 3 1/2" , tacked it in
>place AGAIN ,put everything back together and tried again only to find that
>I fixed the spring problem but created another. You see this rolled the
rear
>axle about 4 degrees from where I wanted it, and of course , thinking that
I
>had it right the first time, I had it welded to the new mounts that I made.
>Soooooo, took it all apart again, cut off the axle mounts, ground
everything
>down smooth, put the axle mounts on the springs, set the axle in place, and
>"TACKED" it to the mounts. Now I can align the pinion angle of the rearend
>with the tranny as soon as I get all that mounted. All of this took one
full
>saturday at about 95 degrees but it still felt good once I was done. Still
>have to mount the sway bar and shocks but that'll come after I get the
>pinion angle set.
> Speaking of pinion angle, I've heard one theory of "up to 6 degrees"
>and another of "about 2 1/2 degrees" , this is the one I chose to accept.
>Would sure be interested in knowing what it says in your video from no
limit
>when you get a chance to view it. Anyway I've chattered long enough. Hope
>this info. might save someone some work somewhere along the way.
> P.S.-- Whenever possible, use clamps instead of tack welding to test
>fit. Saves time and sweat:)
>
>Jeff Davis
>'51 custom
>
>
>
>>From: Paul Blosser <paulblosser@earthlink.net>
>>To: Jeff Davis <jsd51@hotmail.com>
>>CC: oletrucks@autox.team.net
>>Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Wow -- I'm making some headway now!
>>Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 23:47:13 -0500
>>
>>Hi Jeff,
>>
>>The first time I tried to fit the engine/transmission in, the trans
>>wouldn't
>>squeeze through the hole between the transmission tunnel and the old
>>crossmember. One of the other list members (I think Grant Galbraith) said
>>he
>>had to remove his stock crossmember. The trans crossmember I got was from
>>Heavy
>>Chevy. I also have a universal motor mount kit if you need one (the
>>crossmember
>>that hangs below the engine). I decided to go with Chassis Engineering
>>mounts
>>because they mount inside the frame rails and there's nothing hanging
under
>>the
>>engine. The front crossmember that the radiator bolts to is still there.
>>
>>I have the stock front suspension, everything has been redone, springs
>>rearched,
>>new main leaf, teflon between the leaves. I think it should ride pretty
>>nice.
>>
>>How did you go about putting your rear-end in? I got a 12 bolt rear from
a
>>'63
>>1/2 ton (6 bolt wheels) that I plan on putting in -- that's the next big
>>project. I got a video from No Limit and this is one of the things they
>>cover,
>>but just wanted to know about your experience.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Paul Blosser
>>School of Metaphysics
>>1954 3100
>>
>>Jeff Davis wrote:
>>
>> > Great news Paul,
>> >
>> > I've got a 350/350 set up that I'm gonna install in my 3100 but
i'm
>> > still putting the engine together.Was wondering if I was going to have
>>to
>> > cut out the rear crossmember for the tranny. Did you order the new one
>>from
>> > Chassis Engineering ? Haven't gotten as far long as you have yet but
>>figure
>> > all this good info. will help in the future. Also if you don't mind I
>>was
>> > wondering what type front susp. you got. I put a front end out of a '77
>> > pacer in my truck and it looks real good but just by eyeballing it, it
>>looks
>> > like the motor mount is going to be fighting the steering gear box for
>> > space. Anyway, glad to hear someone had a full day of progress, Haven't
>>had
>> > one of them in a couple of weeks since I put in the rearend.
>> >
>> > Congrat's
>> > Jeff Davis
>> > '51 custom
>> >
>> > >From: Paul Blosser <paulblosser@earthlink.net>
>> > >Reply-To: Paul Blosser <paulblosser@earthlink.net>
>> > >To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
>> > >Subject: [oletrucks] Wow -- I'm making some headway now!
>> > >Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 23:05:58 -0500
>> > >
>> > >Boy, I had a great Sunday afternoon -- a whole afternoon to work on
the
>> > >truck! I had cut the old rear crossmember out about 6 or 7 weeks ago
>> > >and I've been waiting for an opportunity to set the 350 engine and
>>turbo
>> > >350 back in the frame. Sunday was the day!
>> > >
>> > >I measured the placement of the Chassis Engineering motor mounts
>> > >according to their specs, marked their placement on the frame with
>>chalk
>> > >then tried to set the engine in. I ended up pulling the motor mounts
>> > >back out (just had them slipped into place) and took off the block
>> > >hugger headers. I put a jack under the tranny and then got the motor
>> > >back where it should be. It's still a tight fit and I need to pull it
>> > >back out again for such things as the torque converter, but it is
such
>> > >a thrill to see the truck sitting there with a small block between the
>> > >frame rails. I think I'll need to trim the lip where the firewall and
>> > >trans tunnel meet. The trans mount is also under the trans and it
loks
>> > >pretty good, still needs to have holes drilled and bolted in.
>> > >
>> > >I wan't about to stop there. Since I had installed a power steering
>> > >sector from a '73 Chevy pickup, I still needed to move the shock
mounts
>> > >from the front to the back of the wheel. Did some measuring, some
>> > >eyeballing and voila', I'm ready for shocks. I bolted up the power
>> > >brake bracket I got from No Limit (the holes don;t quite match up so
>> > >this will come back off to be redrilled). I also had some help
setting
>> > >the front end back on so I could check the radiator clearance. It
>>looks
>> > >like everything will fit, although the power steering pump may be
>>tight.
>> > >
>> > >The thing I discovered is I need to get a steering column in it (I've
>> > >got a column from a van I've rebuilt and repainting), all of a sudden
>> > >the front end of the truck is heavy and I can't turn it by grabbing
the
>> > >tire and yanking.
>> > >
>> > >I can hardly wait for another day like Sunday!
>> > >
>> > >Paul Blosser
>> > >School of Metaphysics
>> > >1954 3100 (with engine)
>> > >
>> > >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
1959
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________________________
>> > Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>>
>
>
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|