Rob, you are right about the marriage part!! Mityvac saved my marriage!!!!
Tim
'50 chev dlx
> ----------
> From: Rob J.[SMTP:rjj0msj@ix.netcom.com]
> Reply To: Rob J.
> Sent: Thursday, July 08, 1999 10:50 AM
> To: tcape; oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Brake Problem
>
> Gotta wonder how you've managed to avoid doing brakes all this time!
> Lucky
> you! The procedure is actually very simple, but needs two people. Don't
> know why, but my wife HATES helping. Maybe it is me yelling at her when
> she
> lets up on the brake pedal too soon? However, the procedure really is
> pretty simple.
> FIrst you gotta figure out where the air is coming in. Regardless, there
> has to be a leak somewhere. Most likely one of the wheel cylinders.
> Replace the wheel cylinder or fix the leak first.
>
> To bleed: Start with a quart sized bottle of brake fluid. Open the
> master
> cylinder (access thru hole in floor). Make sure it is full (and once you
> start, it is CRITICAL that it stays full). Then, starting with the right
> rear wheel cylinder, you open the bleed screw (get a special brake bleeder
> screw wrench (couple of dollars at Pep Boys)). I use a Lisle bleeding
> contraption (basically a plastic jar with a hose the pushes onto the
> bleeder
> screw and collects discharged fluid, and also keeps air from being drawn
> in
> at the bleeder screw. Also under $10 and available at any of the better
> stocked auto parts stores. Anyway, before starting, first makes sure you
> can loosen ALL the bleeder screws. As soon as you loosen them, retighten,
> but at least this way you KNOW they will brake (sic) (pun intended) free.
> Otherwise, you will need to remove the wheel cylinder and use a vice to
> remove them (but then you'll also need replacement bleeder screw). Ok,
> all
> the screws are loose and retightened. Now go to the right rear wheel
> cylinder, hook the hose over the screw, loosen slightly the screw, then
> have
> a helper slowly push the brake pedal to the floor and HOLD IT DOWN DO NOT
> RELEASE. With the pedal down, retighten the screw. Now have the helper
> raise the brake pedal, pump it to build up pressure, then hold pressure on
> it while you reloosen the screw. The pedal will slowly sink to the floor.
> Again, have them hold in down until you retighten the screw. Then they
> can
> raise the pedal. Continue this procedure until all air bubbles stop
> coming
> out the screw and down the hose. Also, if the brakes haven't been bleed
> in
> awhile, continue until the cloudy brown fluid is replaced by clear (new
> appearing) fluid. Then go to the left side wheel and repeat. Then go to
> the right front and repeat, then the left front and repeat.
>
> At all times, make sure the master cylinder never runs low, otherwise you
> will introduce air into the system, and then have to start the whole thing
> over again (been there, done that - remember me saying about yelling at
> wife
> :-(
>
> Brakes are really pretty easy to learn how to do. All you have to keep in
> mind, is that you are trying to avoid air at all costs. If the pedal gets
> raised while the bleeder screw is open, you draw air into it (unless you
> have the Lisle system in place, in which case, the hose is filled with
> fluid
> and then only fluid get sucked back in. Using the Lisle system will
> simplify things somewhat by preventing the need to retighten the screw
> with
> each push of the pedal. It also allows you to collect the wasted brake
> fluid (to later dispose of as HAZWASTE).
>
> There are tools that will power bleed the brakes by "sucking" fluid down
> the
> lines from the master cylinder (you basically hook it up at each wheel and
> suck fluid through the line and this makes it a one man job, but is more
> costly a tool. I am thinking about getting one though as they aren't REAL
> costly and will prevent a broken marriage perhaps.
>
> Let me know if any of this in unclear or you have any other questions.
>
> Rob
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: tcape <tcape@weblnk.net>
> To: Rob J. <rjj0msj@ix.netcom.com>
> Sent: Thursday, July 08, 1999 6:48 AM
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Brake Problem
>
>
> > Thanks, Rob. I've never bled the brakes before. Is that a big
> deal...or
> > something simple?? What do you do with the extra fluid that comes out?
> > Will it evaporate if left on the driveway? I try to be "environmentally
> > friendly" if at all possible. Thanks for the response.
> > Tom
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Rob J. <rjj0msj@ix.netcom.com>
> > To: oletrucks@autox.team.net <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > Date: Tuesday, July 06, 1999 6:20 PM
> > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Brake Problem
> >
> >
> > >Agreed about the air, especially if it shows up "suddenly". If
> bleeding,
> > >start at the wheel cylinder the furthest away from the master and work
> your
> > >way to the one that is closest. Especially important on the single
> > >reservoirs systems.
> > >
> > >Rob
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: Marlene Rzepkowski <mrzepkow@rochester.rr.com>
> > >To: tcape <tcape@weblnk.net>; Oletrucks <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > >Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 1999 1:51 PM
> > >Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Brake Problem
> > >
> > >
> > >> Mushy brakes is usually air in the lines. Air can get in from a low
> > >> reservoir. Try bleeding the brakes all around.
> > >> Dick
> > >> 59 Apache - 1 ton.
> > >>
> > >> -----Original Message-----
> > >> From: tcape <tcape@weblnk.net>
> > >> To: Oletrucks <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > >> Date: Tuesday, July 06, 1999 3:25 PM
> > >> Subject: [oletrucks] Brake Problem
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> >Need some help on a brake problem. While driving my '47 this week,
> I
> > >> >noticed the brakes have suddenly gotten very "spongy" and are VERY
> slow
> > >to
> > >> >stop the truck. I have to mash them very hard to get the truck to
> slow
> > >> >down. They still work, just don't stop nearly as well as before.
> Any
> > >idea
> > >> >what the problem is??? TIA
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
> 1959
> > >> >
> > >>
> > >> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
> 1959
> > >>
> > >
> > >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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