Actually, I feel that stock chains are best because cables have a tendency
to come apart after so many sharp folds, bends, and creases.
If you have trouble with chains chipping your body, get clear chain covers
(with drain holes). A mistake a lot of people make is using clear
polyurethane hose or tubing without drain holes => They fill up with water,
rust chains and the hose becomes stiff/brittle and discolored over time.
Tom B. 57 Stepside 3200
-----Original Message-----
From: miq@teleport.com [SMTP:miq@teleport.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 1999 4:54 PM
To: AndrewThor@email.msn.com
Cc: James Thingwold; oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Tailgate chaines - help
Andrew Thor says:
>
> I used tailgate cables from a 77 Suburban screwed to the inside of the
bed
> with stainless bolts in the stake pocket area. That is attached to a tab
on
> the tailgate I welded in place. Works great and really cleans up the
> outside of the box. No more chipped paint and listening to them chains
> rattle!
There was also an article in Custom Classic Trucks about 18-24 months ago
about the installation of one of the kits that Baker Restoration and TCI
both put out that swaps the chains for internal hinges.
Personally, I went to a plastic coated cable that I put a big knot in once
fed through the bolt hole in the stake pocket. The idea was that when the
gate is up, the cable would be hidden from view inside the pocket.
It didn't work very well and I went back to stock chains, except that I
coated them with a rubberized coating usually used for tools' handles. No
more rattles.
--
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Miq Millman miq@teleport.com
Tualatin, OR
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