oletrucks
[Top] [All Lists]

[oletrucks] optional equiptment?: heaters, turn signals, shocks

To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: [oletrucks] optional equiptment?: heaters, turn signals, shocks
From: Steve Brandon <brandon@acuson.com>
Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 11:09:26 -0800
I have a 46 2 Ton flatbed (PW series) I am working on, and I have a few
questions about some missing pieces.

Truck has no heater.  Was there a factor option heater available
that I should be looking for?  Aftermarket heaters that fit?  How were
these plumbed into the motor...I don't see any obvious hookups
on the old 216, but the 235 I have looks like it has a spare hole
near the lower rad hose inlet on the water pump (I think this would
be the cold water return from the heater).  A second hole  just below
thermostat housing would be the hot side...right?

The truck came with no shock absorbers.  Were these optional or
are they just missing?   I believe they used knee action shocks during
these years...and looking around I can't find any info on heavy
duty knee action shocks (I found some info on car & 1/2 ton
shocks)

The truck came with no bed... hence no tail lights.  What  tail lights
were standard  on the '46 trucks?  Is it the same as the 1/2 ton
trucks (single tail light/lic plate light ).  The truck had a signalstat

turn signal installed sometime back...what kind of tail lights were
supplied
with these add-ons?

I also have a question on turn signal wiring.  I know you can use dual
filament bulbs & sockets to get the turn signal and  running lights from

the same bulb.  Did they use these for the rear light or did they use
different bulbs for running lights and brake light? Are these dual
element
bulbs available in 6V?

I also have heard of a single filament solution using  diodes to feed
both the turn signal input and the running light input to the same
bulb.  Has anyone on the list tried this solution on a 6volt truck?

This sounds like a great idea, but I am concerned about the
voltage drop across the diode dimming the light.  Silicon diodes drop
0.7 volts, so there would only be 5.3 volts on the lights.  Germanium
diodes only drop  0.3 volts and would seem to be a better idea but
are more difficult to find.    Perhaps a small transistor circuit would
work better...a transistor can be driven into saturation to give a
voltage drop of only 0.2 volts (collector-emitter voltage).  Use the
summed signals from the blocking diodes to turn on the transistor.

Any other ideas out there for a single bulb turn signal solution?

            Thanks,
                    Steve Brandon


<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>