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Re: [Nobbc] THANKSGIVING RIDE

To: "North Bay British Car Club" <nobbc@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Nobbc] THANKSGIVING RIDE
From: "Clif & Deborah Williamson" <hawkview@sonic.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Nov 2010 15:43:01 -0800
Thanks for the info.  I am not sure yet how bad it is.
Here is sellers description:
flywheel 3 pounds lighter and rebalanced plus clutch area resurfaced by 
professional speed shop in reseda california.
labor cost me 120 $. resurfaced clutch area has little surface rust ,should 
have  no impact on clutch performance. tooth wheel in excellent condition.
I know for sure a stock flywheel is 21 pounds and will weight the new one 
next week when I get it.
And defined condition:
New: A brand-new, unused, unopened, undamaged item in its original 
packaging.
So I assume it is new and modified.

--------------------------------------------------
From: "wendell bain" <wbain@sonic.net>
Sent: Friday, November 19, 2010 1:30 PM
To: "North Bay British Car Club" <nobbc@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Nobbc] THANKSGIVING RIDE

> Clif,
>
> Greg's advice on using 120-150 grit paper is good. If it's just  surface 
> rust
> it should give you a usable f/w.
>
> Cheers,
> Wendell
>
> On Nov 19, 2010, at 8:12 AM, Greg Tatarian wrote:
>
>>  Clif,
>>
>> Try JNW Engine http://jnweng.com/
>> Talk to Jerry and tell him Greg Tatarian with the Lotuses sent you.  I 
>> put on a tech session at Jerry's shop last year for the NOBBC.
>>
>> Not sure anyone's going to measure 10 microns - they are going to  cut 
>> until the surface is smooth and flat, but you can ask him to go  as 
>> lightly as possible. If it's just light surface rust, I would  use a 
>> surface plate and 120-150 grit paper, myself, and save the  $40  (at 
>> least for flywheels that have the friction surface level  or raise above 
>> the surrounding portion).
>>
>> Pros and cons of lightened steel vs. stock, vs. aluminum flywheels  are 
>> generally not specific to any car make or model but are pretty  uniform; 
>> lightened steel needs to be done properly or you can have  it fly apart 
>> on you at high revs. Stock is fine, but heavy.  Aluminum flywheels have 
>> to have the right design and treatment for  the aluminum so that the 
>> steel flywheel face and surrounding  aluminum material expand and 
>> contract much as a unit, and so the  aluminum isn't too soft, and the 
>> replaceable steel insert has to be  available for future replacements. 
>> Some don't like alu because it  affects apparent torque, particularly 
>> with small, light motors  coming off the line. Some poorly designed or 
>> made units have had  problems with ring gear coming off (same problem of 
>> differential  expansion rates, as well as different pinning methods). 
>> Lighter  flywheels definitely make the motor more throttle responsive. 
>> Don't  forget to check the tooth bevel of the ring gear on the new f/w 
>> matches the engagement of your starter (front or back), as we  talked 
>> about in Napa.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Greg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 11/18/2010 11:36 PM, Clif & Deborah Williamson wrote:
>>>  Does anybody know a good shop for this operation?  I think 10  microns 
>>> is required.
>>> Thank,
>>> Clif  74 JH
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> _______________________________________________
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