Wow, I've learnt lots on cooling (and more) from the list in recent times.
One thing you need to keep in mind with cooling systems is the thermostat
will remain closed and prevent water flow until it reaches its set
temperature. To flush the engine block you need to remove the thermostat
first. If you don't, the water can't flow (unless it's above the thermostat
operating temp) and the fact that the air can't get in at the top should
mean that the fluid can't come out of a small opening at the bottom.
Most repair shops can do a pressure flush with the aid of compressed air and
water - through both the engine and the radiator. I'd recommend that you run
a radiator cleaner through first (read AND FOLLOW the instructions!!), then
use a good quality coolant afterwards - especially important for those with
alumin(i)um heads etc.
Also, one of the big advantages of a recovery system is that it limits the
amount of oxygen that gets into the coolant and that reduces the oxidation -
ie rust. Another advantage is that because you don't lose the fluid, the
concentration of ions and contaminants doesn't get out of hand - these would
also help the rusting process. If you do need to top up, try to use coolant
or distilled water. The contaminants and additives in most tap water are
sure to encourage rust.
One last tip that I don't recall seeing in the recent recovery discussion -
maybe it's because everybody already knows this, but I'll say it anyway -
coolant expands and contracts with temperature. If you fill a non-recovery
system radiator, after a run it should have lost about an inch of coolant.
Don't top it up. That top inch will just keep disappearing.
Cheers,
Terry (from down-under)
'60 4/4
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