John et al,
I've had good success in the past cleaning female connectors with "TV Tuner
Cleaner". The aerosol cans made for mechanical tuners was effective at
cleaning hidden contacts & connectors. Try electronics suppliers. It may be
harder to get these days, as digital tuners are all so common. A single can
has lasted me for years, not only for old TV sets but for by auto electric
problems. John mentions the problems with using connectors from old
harnesses, but as mentioned in earlier posts there are a number of companies
that can supply new auto-electric connectors, plugs, & bits. The copper wire
can also be cleaned with mild acids & such.
Cheers,
Fred Kuzyk
MSCCC Webmaster
Visit the Morgan Sports Car Club of Canada Web site at:
http://members.xoom.com/msccc/
For info on cigars, local cigar clubs & events, etc; visit my other web site
Holy Smokes
http://members.xoom.com/holysmokes/
-----Original Message-----
From: Blair, John <JBlair@scn.spawar.navy.mil>
To: 'Bob Nogueira' <nogera@prodigy.net>; 'morgans@autox.team.net'
<morgans@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, April 15, 1999 7:53 AM
Subject: RE: Sill covers & Lucas
>Bob Nogueira wrote:
>
>>Regarding the Lucas Issue, the use of Motorcraft (yes Will, a Ford
>product)
>>Dielectric Compound (grease) on all connections, bulbs and fuses has
>>prevented corrosion and the resulting blackouts.
>
>To continue this thought for a second. As anyone come up with a good way
to
>Clean old dirty contacts before applying the dielectric compound. I've
>tried using
>Sandpaper on Popsicle sticks, screwdrivers, and knifes. The sandpaper
works
>Best but ONLY if you have access to the connector - like a grounding
eyelet.
>I haven't found anything for cleaning the female spade clips.
>
>For those that aren't initiated into the problems of an old wiring harness,
>the
>Solution seems very easy, cut the old connector off, and simply solder a
new
>
>One on. The problem with this, is that if the connector is tarnished, you
>can bet
>The wire is also. This tarnish, will NOT let solder adhere to the wire.
So
>you have
>to cut a little more wire off looking for a clean spot. I've cut over 3
>feet back on a
>wire looking for clean wire that I could solder to with on luck.
>
>Oh, the joys of playing with old cars.
>
>John
>
>
>John T. Blair
>jblair@scn.spawar.navy.mil
>SPAWARSYSCEN Chesapeake
>Chesapeake, Va (757) 523-8133
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Nogueira [SMTP:nogera@prodigy.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 1999 8:19 PM
> To: Jeff Webster; aMORGANS@autox.team.net; Blair John
> Subject: Re:Sill covers & Lucas
>
> -- [ From: Bob Nogueira * EMC.Ver #3.1a ] --
>
> To add to Johns post here, I used auto carpet padding ( Jute) and
>built up
> one layer at time to fit over the sill plate, the last layer runs
>from the
> door sill to the floor. All of the layers being held together with
>spray
> contact cement. Makes a nice one piece unit which is not attached
>to the
> sill and is held only by the cover.
> For the cover I tacked under the door sill plate and used snaps on
>the floor
> with velcro on the ends. This works really well as the velcro allows
>me to
> keep the cover tight and the snaps allow for a quick removal of the
>padding
> after a drive in the rain. All those chassis sills rotted from
>contact
> with wet horse hair .
> Another innovation was to glue the rubber floor mat to a sheet of
>aluminum
> cut to the same pattern as the mat. It never pulls loose and
>bunches up
> under my feet and cleaning is accomplished by lifting it out and
>taping it
> on the ground
>
> Regarding the Lucas Issue, the use of Motorcraft (yes Will, a Ford
>product)
> Dielectric Compound (grease) on all connections, bulbs and fuses
>has
> prevented corrosion and the resulting blackouts.
> And thanks to everyone for the input regarding the dashboard
>finish.
>
> Bob Nogueira
>
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