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Clausager and BL documents imply that the UK only had twin horns from =
1970, North America with the Mk2. Originally there was a sub-harness =
from the right-hand to the left-hand horn, the main harness probably =
contained the wiring for both from 1970. It/they moved from the slam =
panel to the inner wing in 1963.
The earth path to the horn push is pretty awful, no allowance for =
electrical conductivity in the chassis/crossmember/rack/UJ/column =
assembly unlike a pal's TR4 that has a braided strap from the chassis to =
the rack and another round the UJ. In which case a PO may have removed =
the 2nd horn as it would double the load and make things even worse if =
connections are weak. My V8 came to me with a single moped horn, I had =
to add a relay before the correct horns would work at all even one. =
Subsequently I had to add one to the roadster as well. The standard =
horns with good electrical conductivity are pretty powerful.
If you put a voltmeter between the purple terminal at the horns and the =
body and push the button you will see how much voltage you are losing =
through the fuse (if any) by the voltage dropping from 12v. Do the same =
on the purple/black and the higher that is above zero shows how much you =
are losing through the earth path.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----=20
Speaking of horns, my 1969 MGB GT has only one horn. Is that =
original? It has two wires going to it. It works OK, but it just =
sounds weak. What is a good alternative? Can I wire two horns here?
Mike MacLean
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<DIV>Clausager and BL documents imply that the UK only had twin =
horns from=20
1970, North America with the Mk2. Originally there was a =
sub-harness from=20
the right-hand to the left-hand horn, the main harness probably =
contained=20
the wiring for both from 1970. It/they moved from the slam panel =
to the=20
inner wing in 1963.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The earth path to the horn push is pretty awful, no allowance for=20
electrical conductivity in the chassis/crossmember/rack/UJ/column =
assembly=20
unlike a pal's TR4 that has a braided strap from the chassis to the rack =
and=20
another round the UJ. In which case a PO may have removed the 2nd =
horn as=20
it would double the load and make things even worse if connections are=20
weak. My V8 came to me with a single moped horn, I had to add a =
relay=20
before the correct horns would work at all even one. Subsequently =
I had to=20
add one to the roadster as well. The standard horns with good =
electrical=20
conductivity are pretty powerful.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>If you put a voltmeter between the purple terminal at the =
horns and=20
the body and push the button you will see how much voltage you are =
losing=20
through the fuse (if any) by the voltage dropping from 12v. Do the =
same on=20
the purple/black and the higher that is above zero shows how much you =
are losing=20
through the earth path.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>PaulH.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"=20
dir=3Dltr>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV>Speaking of horns, my 1969 MGB GT has only one horn. Is =
that=20
original? It has two wires going to it. It works OK, but =
it just=20
sounds weak. What is a good alternative? Can I wire two =
horns=20
here?</DIV>
<DIV>Mike MacLean<BR></DIV></DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_quote>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px =
0.8ex; PADDING-LEFT: 1ex"=20
=
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