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I've done it both ways and it all depends on how much space, how many =
bodies are available, and how big a hoist you have. Single-handed in a =
single-width garage and with a folding hoist I've done engines three =
times including a V8, and even when the V8 gearbox needed to come out I =
did the engine first and got the gearbox out afterwards which makes =
dealing with the gearbox crossmember easier.
But if all you need is access to the engine or clutch then engine only =
is far easier as dealing with the gearbox crossmember and the speedo =
cable (when on an OD) is the big problem getting it out with the engine, =
and everything else you list is extra work that isn't needed. Getting =
the two back together is the same whether they are both out or the =
gearbox is out as well - with one exception I'll come on to. With the =
gearbox out both need to be held to get them back together or they =
wriggle about like small children in the bath, doing that on two =
occasions with two people it took longer than getting engines back in on =
their own. With the gearbox wedged at the top of the tunnel that is =
held still while you are manipulating the engine and only needs one =
person. =20
The exception is that on chrome bumper models you can't lower the engine =
in then push it straight back onto the gearbox as the crossmember is in =
the way, it has to be done at a steeper angle until the end of the first =
motion shaft is inside the clutch cover, then reduce the angle and it =
will go back. With rubber bumper models as in your case with the body =
sitting higher on the crossmember the engine can be lowered in and =
pushed straight back. Believe me, it is far easier doing engine only, =
and that is how the pros do it.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----=20
The workshop manual recommends removing the engine and gearbox as one =
unit. Has anyone had success removing the engine while leaving the =
gearbox in place? All bell housing bolts appear accessible, and a =
friend would love to not have to remove the console, carpet, gearshift, =
driveshaft, etc., to get the engine out--the head has serious problems, =
and he fears the block will too.
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I've done it both ways and it all depends on how =
much space,=20
how many bodies are available, and how big a hoist you have. =
Single-handed=20
in a single-width garage and with a folding hoist I've done engines =
three times=20
including a V8, and even when the V8 gearbox needed to come out I did =
the engine=20
first and got the gearbox out afterwards which makes dealing with the =
gearbox=20
crossmember easier.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>But if all you need is access to the engine or =
clutch=20
then engine only is far easier as dealing with the gearbox crossmember =
and the=20
speedo cable (when on an OD) is the big problem getting it out with the =
engine,=20
and everything else you list is extra work that isn't =
needed. Getting=20
the two back together is the same whether they are both out or the =
gearbox is=20
out as well - with one exception I'll come on to. With the gearbox =
out=20
both need to be held to get them back together or they wriggle about =
like small=20
children in the bath, doing that on two occasions with two people it =
took longer=20
than getting engines back in on their own. W</FONT><FONT =
size=3D2>ith the=20
gearbox wedged at the top of the tunnel that is held still while you are =
manipulating the engine and only needs one person. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The exception is that on chrome bumper models you =
can't lower=20
the engine in then push it straight back onto the gearbox as the =
crossmember is=20
in the way, it has to be done at a steeper angle until the end of the =
first=20
motion shaft is inside the clutch cover, then reduce the angle and it =
will go=20
back. With rubber bumper models as in your case with the body =
sitting=20
higher on the crossmember the engine can be lowered in and pushed =
straight=20
back. Believe me, it is far easier doing engine only, and that is =
how the=20
pros do it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV class=3DWordSection1>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>The workshop manual recommends removing the =
engine and=20
gearbox as one unit. Has anyone had success removing the engine =
while=20
leaving the gearbox in place? All bell housing bolts appear =
accessible,=20
and a friend would love to <I>not</I> have to remove the console, =
carpet,=20
gearshift, driveshaft, etc., to get the engine out--the head has =
serious=20
problems, and he fears the block will =
too.</P></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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