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The lower mounting point for the rebound strap on an MGB (the car that =
was the subject of the original enquiry) is on the axle. So when you =
fit lowering blocks the body becomes lower relative to the axle and the =
rebound straps become slacker not more taut. The bump rubber on the =
body is now also closer to the pedestal on the axle, so the damper can't =
be 'compressed' any more than it was before. And with the same straps =
the damper can't be extended any more than previously either.
Incorrect springs that give a very raised ride height may well cause the =
problem of picking up a rear tyre in a fast turn, but lowering blocks =
will reduce or eliminate that.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----=20
Lowering blocks raise the rear axle in relation to the springs, but do =
not change the spring height in relation to the body or chassis frame. =
You can correct the ride height that way, but it will not correct the =
gross misalignment for the rebound straps (which are attached to the =
lower spring mounting plate).
If the rebould straps are close to taught when at rest, they you will =
be royally screwed on handling when driving. It will pick a rear tire =
completely off the ground in a fast turn, causing severe oversteer (very =
dangerous condition). And if you install longer rebound straps, you =
will get damage to the lever arm shocks from overtravel.
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The lower mounting point for the rebound strap =
on an MGB=20
(the car that was the subject of the original enquiry) is on the =
axle. So=20
when you fit lowering blocks the body becomes lower relative to the =
axle=20
and the rebound straps become slacker not more taut. The bump =
rubber=20
on the body is now also closer to the pedestal on the axle, so the =
damper=20
can't be 'compressed' any more than it was before. And with the =
same=20
straps the damper can't be extended any more than =
previously=20
either.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Incorrect springs that give a very raised ride =
height may well=20
cause the problem of picking up a rear tyre in a fast turn, but lowering =
blocks=20
will reduce or eliminate that.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"=20
dir=3Dltr>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2></FONT><BR></DIV><FONT =
size=3D3>Lowering=20
blocks raise the rear axle in relation to the springs, but do not =
change the=20
spring height in relation to the body or chassis frame. You can =
correct=20
the ride height that way, but it will not correct the gross =
misalignment for=20
the rebound straps (which are attached to the lower spring mounting=20
plate).<BR><BR>If the rebould straps are close to taught when at rest, =
they=20
you will be royally screwed on handling when driving. It will =
pick a=20
rear tire completely off the ground in a fast turn, causing severe =
oversteer=20
(very dangerous condition). And if you install longer rebound =
straps,=20
you will get damage to the lever arm shocks from =
overtravel.<BR></FONT>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dcite cite=3D"" type=3D"cite">
<BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dcite cite=3D"" type=3D"cite">
<DL>
<DD><FONT=20
size=3D2></FONT> </DD></DL></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></=
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