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Because the LEDs take so little current they need a dimmer that inserts =
a higher resistance in the circuit to shunt enough voltage away from the =
LEDs to dim them. They should dim, I have a couple of incandescents =
still in circuit on both my cars and the LEDs dim to some extent, but =
not as much as all incandescents.
Normally dimmers are just a series resistance, i.e. two wires, and you =
connect it between the supply and the lamps i.e. in the same place the =
factory dimmer is.
The factory dimmer should still turn the lights off altogether (both =
mine do) , so an alternative is to connect a parallel resistance with =
the lights to boost the current (1.5 amps is neither here nor there in =
the total load on the alternator), so that the factory dimmer works. In =
theory - based on the relative currents - a 15 ohm 10 watt resistor =
should boost the load to that of the original four 2.2w bulbs. But as =
the voltage/illumination characteristics are different as well there may =
still be a difference.
PaulH.=20
----- Original Message -----=20
Although the bulbs are advertised as =E2=80=9Cdim-able=E2=80=9D in my =
experience they are either on or off =E2=80=94 full brightness or not =
visible. It could very well be that a electronic dimmer is required, and =
they don't =E2=80=9Cdim=E2=80=9D with the old-fashioned rheostat.
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<HTML><HEAD>
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<META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML 8.00.6001.23588">
<STYLE></STYLE>
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<BODY style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space" =
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Because the LEDs take so little current they need a =
dimmer=20
that inserts a higher resistance in the circuit to shunt enough voltage =
away=20
from the LEDs to dim them. They should dim, I have a couple of=20
incandescents still in circuit on both my cars and the LEDs dim to some =
extent,=20
but not as much as all incandescents.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Normally dimmers are just a series resistance, i.e. =
two wires,=20
and you connect it between the supply and the lamps i.e. in the same =
place the=20
factory dimmer is.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The factory dimmer should still turn the lights off =
altogether=20
(both mine do) , so an alternative is to connect a parallel resistance =
with the=20
lights to boost the current (1.5 amps is neither here nor there in the =
total=20
load on the alternator), so that the factory dimmer works. In =
theory -=20
based on the relative currents - a 15 ohm 10 watt resistor =
should boost the=20
load to that of the original four 2.2w bulbs. But as the=20
voltage/illumination characteristics are different as well there may =
still be a=20
difference.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: =
black"><BR> </DIV>
<DIV>Although the bulbs are advertised as =E2=80=9Cdim-able=E2=80=9D =
in my experience they are=20
either on or off =E2=80=94 full brightness or not visible. It could =
very well be that=20
a electronic dimmer is required, and they don't =E2=80=9Cdim=E2=80=9D =
with the old-fashioned=20
rheostat.<BR>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT><BR></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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