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Firstly I have no idea how much you know. Secondly I'm treating this as =
a simple non-starter and ignoring what you have done and the fact it =
seemed to run at some point..
I take it you had both valves for No.1 cylinder closed when the piston =
was at TDC? It's only then the rotor will be in the correct position, =
and the leads should be fitted to the cap 1 3 4 2 anti-clockwise from =
there.
After cranking a bit are the plugs wet or at least smelling strongly of =
fuel? If not fuel isn't getting through. Does the pump deliver fuel if =
the hose is removed from the carb and directed into a container?
Have you checked for a spark at each plug lead when cranking? If you =
have an old-fashioned neon timing light you can check when No.1 is =
getting its spark. A powered timing light may need to be run off a =
separate 12v supply as the reduced voltage when cranking may not be =
enough.
If it only runs with the key held in the crank position then there is a =
break in the normal ignition supply via the ballast wire.
What ignition system does it have? Original 45DE4? 45DM4? Points? Or =
after-market electronic?
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----=20
got all the wiring reredone after I butchered it reremoving and =
rereplacing fuel pumps, put back the various hoses and things I had =
removed in the engine compartment after removing the valve cover.
=20
Nada. =20
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Firstly I have no idea how much you know. =
Secondly I'm=20
treating this as a simple non-starter and ignoring what you have done =
and the=20
fact it seemed to run at some point..</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I take it you had both valves for No.1 cylinder =
closed when=20
the piston was at TDC? It's only then the rotor will be in the =
correct=20
position, and the leads should be fitted to the cap 1 3 4 2 =
anti-clockwise=20
from there.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>After cranking a bit are the plugs wet or at least =
smelling=20
strongly of fuel? If not fuel isn't getting through. Does =
the pump=20
deliver fuel if the hose is removed from the carb and directed into a=20
container?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Have you checked for a spark at each plug lead when=20
cranking? If you have an old-fashioned neon timing light you can =
check=20
when No.1 is getting its spark. A powered timing light may need to =
be run=20
off a separate 12v supply as the reduced voltage when cranking may not =
be=20
enough.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>If it only runs with the key held in the crank =
position then=20
there is a break in the normal ignition supply via the ballast=20
wire.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>What ignition system does it have? Original =
45DE4? =20
45DM4? Points? Or after-market electronic?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV></DIV>
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<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV><o:p><FONT size=3D2></FONT></o:p> </DIV>
<DIV class=3DWordSection1>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>got all the wiring reredone after I butchered it =
reremoving=20
and rereplacing fuel pumps, put back the various hoses and things I =
had=20
removed in the engine compartment after removing the valve=20
cover.<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>Nada. =
<o:p></o:p></P></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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