Boot light switch - sounds more like an issue with the positioning of the
switch holder or the actuator on the lid, given the simplicity of the
switch.
Don't expect the gauge to be linear even when recalibrated. If the top of
the tank is rusted out it is very obvious from staining down the sides of
the tank. But that shouldn't really put fuel smells in the boot anyway as
it is under the floor, it would be more obvious outside.
Incidentally replacement senders vary wildly from the originals and even
each other. because of that you can't reliably recalibrate the gauge using
the resistance values given on Barney's site, you can only do it in the car
with the appropriate tank and sender. First fill the tank, then tweak the
gauge to show F, then enjoy using your tank full of fuel. When it gets near
the bottom carry a spare gallon, and run the tank right out. Now you can
either adjust the gauge to E there and then before putting your spare gallon
in, or you can do what I do and put your spare gallon in and then adjust to
E, giving you a psychological 'reserve'. Note that in my experience of five
senders on two cars the gauge stops moving before you actually run out. So
if you notice the needle has stopped moving, even when going round curves,
you are nearly out.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
> Fortunately(?), the boot light switch is not an issue. After two of those
> switches failed in the â??onâ?? state, even with the lid closed, I stopped
> replacing them and just leave the circuit disconnected these days. Iâ??d
> rather have no boot light than a dead battery.
>
> Now, I have a new tank, new sending unit, new pump, and new primary fuel
> hose connections. I still lose the â??top of the tankâ?? rapidly ...
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