Borg and Beck, worth paying a higher price for. Standard carbon bearing,
the roller bearing isn't worth it unless you habitually 'ride the clutch'
i.e. drive with your foot on the clutch pedal. Check the bearing doesn't
have a roll-pin through the side to retain the carbon ring, they were around
a few years ago and the carbon could break up in a few thousand miles
(http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/rbearing.htm#1). As far as other work goes I'd
counsel caution, the more you do the more you disturb and the more you are
likely to cause knock-on problems. Check for wear in the release arm pivot
bushes i.e. lateral play as that can cause misalignment between the release
bearing and the cover plate, especially if you are changing because of
release bearing problems. Check the bolts on the first motion shaft oil
seal cover plate and the gasket for leaks. If there is oil from the rear
crank seal then you will have to replace that as it will contaminate the
clutch. Make sure you get the friction plate the right way round, although
in my experience it is blindingly obvious as the friction surface is nowhere
near the flywheel when on wrong
(http://www.paulhunt73.webspace.virginmedia.com/mgb-stuff/images/odr16.jpg).
Be sure to use the grease with the clutch kit on the first motion shaft and
splined drive of the friction plate, and the release bearing pivots, spread
evenly, not in dollops. If you haven't thought about it yet having done it
both ways I would definitely advise removing the engine only, I found it far
easier to get the engine correctly aligned on replacement with the gearbox
firmly held by the car, than when both were on the ground.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
>> I need to replace the clutch in my 73 MGBGT. Anyone have suggestions on
>> what parts I should order and the best source considering quality and
>> best
>> value? Thanks.
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