That's why you need to use a self-locking nut so you can leave it a
little loose to allow rotation. Two plain nuts jammed together would
work as well.
At 11:46 AM 11/10/2014 -0800, Simon Matthews wrote:
>....
>Thanks for the information. If I understand it correctly, in the
>original installation, the P-clip would be able to rotate on the end
>of the lever. Your suggested approach won't allow rotation. Does it
>matter? How about a screw with two nuts arranged tightly against each
>other, but not tight against the P-Clip and lever?
>....
>On Mon, Nov 10, 2014 at 11:17 AM, Barney Gaylord <barneymg@mgaguru.com> wrote:
> > Your Bowden type replacement jacketed cable is as original. It was
> > originally attached to the latch assembly with a shoulder rivet. Procedure
> > to replace is to pry open the square P-clip, R&R the cable and squeeze the
> > P-clip closed agian. Since your latch is missing the shoulder rivet, you
> > can assemble it with a #10 screw and self-locking nut, like this:
> > http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/body/pics/door_latch1.jpg
> >> At 05:49 PM 11/9/2014 -0800, Simon Matthews wrote:
> >>
> >> I bought a new door pull some time ago and now I want to fit it.
> >>
> >> When I bought the car, it had a home-made door pull, so I don't have a
> >> model to see how it should be fitted.
> >>
> >> The PO had used some wire that was looped through the hole in the door
> >> pull lever and then crimped back to itself.
> >>
> >> The new cable looks like a bowden cable, with knobs attached to both ends.
> >> Both of these knobs are inserted into a fitting, which could be fastened
> >> onto the door at the front end, but there does not seem to be an
> obvious way
> >> to attach it to the lever that operates the latch. I suppose a short bolt
> >> and nut could be used, but this doesn't seem right.
> >>
> >> I have taken some photos, which can be seen here:
> >>
> >>
> https://plus.google.com/photos/102529760702182030672/albums/6079886356814013233
> >>
> >> How should the cable be attached?
> >> ....
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