I take it you will only use the purple circuit to feed through the relay
contacts, and not to operate the relay as well, as that would mean the fan
could still be running while the car is parked.
The purple circuit is already fused, so you won't need another fuse . The
fuses in an MGB are designed to protect the wiring and the standard rating
of 17amps, 35 amp blow is all you need, that rating is used in the green
circuit that supplies the fan from the factory, as well as the purple
circuit.
FWIW the fan takes a surprisingly high current considering what air movement
it results in. An ammeter will tell you that, and a resistance measurement
of the fan motor when stopped together with Ohms Law will tell you the
instantaneous current. But as far as typical automotive fuses go that can
be ignored.
Can't see any reason to use other than the same gauge of wire as used in the
majority of the rest of the wiring. With the relatively small amount of
wiring in the MGB compared to a modern car having different grades of wire
according to the load, and consequently different ratings of fuse to protect
them, only means you will have to carry multiple ratings as spares. Keep it
simple, and the two spares in the fusebox lid can be used for anything else
you add.
You say 'relays', but there is only any point in using a relay in the
circuit for the 'high' speed. The 'low' speed is obtained by putting a
resistance in series with the motor, and any additional resistances in the
original wiring will have a negligible difference on the resulting fan
speed. Leave the low speed as it is, and use a single relay operated from
the fast speed contact of the switch to power the motor bypassing the heater
box resistance.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
> Anybody know what these devices draw in normal use? More importantly, any
> clues as to the startup draw?
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