Forgot to mention the other little problem: in re-tightening the front
"lever & pin", I broke the bolt. Of course I couldn't find an exact
replacement at the hardware store -- the nut was some odd size that neither
5/16 or 11/32 fit effectively (I assume that was 21/64, but WHY????). So I
grabbed a pair of metric bolts that take an 8mm perfectly (a pair, so that
the same socket would fit both). I also ordered a new unit from Moss, but
when it arrived I refused to put it on the car -- it was just too cheesy
(yes, even cheesier than using metric hardware). The piece was just a bent
stamping -- instead of the pressed-in round pin, it had a bent flat tab. I
wasn't convinced that it would actuate simultaneously with the other pin,
based on the completely different shape. Plus, it just looked cheap, like it
was from a Geo Metro (my baseline for cheap construction -- everything on
that car was a cheap stamping, including the axle nuts).
Anyway, it's all back together, tuned and test-run.
During this process, I discovered that the heater valve control cable had
become detached. The set screw was spinning in the cable clamp, but a new
screw seemed to fix that.
While I was at it, I thought I would try to center the steering wheel, which
had been bugging me -- it was a tooth off-center. But in order to undo the
nut, I had to remove the horn button, and starting this procedure brought to
mind the problems I had had installing the new steering wheel, which was
slightly thicker. Anyway, the three set screws around the edge of the hub
all had stripped slots. I managed to back one out purely using friction.
Then I unbolted the wheel from the adapter by removing the perimeter screws.
I couldn't remove the wheel, which was still trapped by the horn button, but
it gave me enough wiggle room to rotate the button and pry it off. Then I
loosened the center nut and removed the hub, and took it to my workbench to
get the stripped set screws out. I managed to remove two of them and fab up
replacements -- the horn button has a notch, so it can be slipped on over a
single fixed set screw.
I had marked the hub position, so I refitted it one tooth over, got the
wheel back together and tested the horn, which operated no more erratically
then previously. So I chalked that up as a win.
But if I actually want to drive it anywhere, I suppose I need to bow to the
calendar and fit the hardtop. Today, for instance, started off sunny, then
featured a succession of torrential downpours, many with the sun still
shining.
--
Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
on 12/6/12 5:19 PM, Max Heim at mvheim@sonic.net wrote:
> Well, my MGB has been inactive for some time, while I have been sorting out
> the carburetors. Here is a partial rundown of the process so far:
>
> [Problem -- solution]
> Sticky piston -- fitted a different suction chamber; dismantled, cleaned and
> reassembled both carbs; centered jets.
> Pulled the pipe out of the jet when refitting -- ordered new jet from Moss.
> Rear carb not returning to idle -- removed idle cam & spring and reassembled
> with washers in correct position.
> Rear carb still not returning to idle -- discovered throttle lever was loose
> on shaft; peened lever, added washer.
> Rear carb STILL not returning to idle -- discovered shaft was bulging at
> ends of butterfly slot, causing it to stick; sanded down shaft to round
> section.
>
> The array is reassembled (again), but between downpours and early sundowns I
> haven't got them set up or synced yet.
>
> Missed a scheduled backroad run on the last sunny weekend, too.
>
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
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