Did you try replacing the condenser again? I think these often fail
when almost new (that's why I don't normally replace them).
Simon
On Mon, Nov 9, 2009 at 2:21 PM, Robert J. Guinness
<guinness@stclegal.com> wrote:
> As usual, I am mystified by my MGA. On a recent trip, it began to sputter
> and die. I could start it again, and go a short distance by pumping the
gas
> pedal in unison with its dieing sputters. Now the car will only
> intermittently start. If I rev the engine and hold the gas pedal constant,
> the engine will run rough for a few seconds and then the revs will drop
> steadily until it dies.
>
> I changed the spark plugs which were black and went to a hotter plug
> (Autolite 63 gapped to .35). I re-timed the engine (twice). I had
replaced
> the points,and rotor about a month ago. The car ran great when I installed
> the new points so I know I installed them correctly. The condenser is from
> last Spring. I had reported to the list recently that the cam block on the
> points on this car had worn in just a few months so that they hardly
> opened. Barney Gaylor suggested testing the coil to see if it was a
> ballister type, which it was not. I replaced the ground wire on the
> distributor about a year and a half ago and inspection shows it is in good
> condition.
> I had problems last year with a reconditioned head that the machine shop
had
> failed to lap the bronze guides. The problem seemed to work itself out.
>
> I am getting gas. And my rudimentary spark plug tested from HF says the
> plugs are sparking. Compression shows all four cylinders within 5 lbs of
> each other (@125)
>
> This is a 1963 MGB 3-main engine with the original MGA carbs.
>
> For what its worth, the "rear seal" on the engine has began to leak about 4
> months ago. I attributed this to a really nackered U-joint messing up
drive
> shaft.
>
> How should I go about diagnosing and repairing this problem. Could it be
> the condenser? The camshaft? Valves? Bearings (rear seal leak)?
Vengeful
> gods?
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