Thanks John,
I got the ARP studs, very pricey! It turned out that the head was cracked
between #1 & #2, very unusual. Even the machinist, a British car specialist
here in Seattle) missed it, and he said he's never seen one crack like this.
He's now rebuilding an early head I had lying around.
I'm going with the Payen gasket set too, so I'm pretty confident, now that I
know the reason for the failure.
Stuart
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Head gasket advice
I'm my experience rebuilding MGB engines I had a few that blew head
gaskets
soon after being rebuilt. The main problem as that after a few times having
the head and or block resurfaced the compression ratio of the engine keeps
increasing combined with the old mild steel studs you get leaks. You need to
get the block and head flat again then change the studs. I prefer the ARP
chromoly stud kit and have run race engines at 13to1 compression without
blowing the gasket. Any ARP bolt dealer/performance car shop can order the
kit. I did try grade 8 bolts torqued to 60ft lbs once on the recommendation
of
my father (an aerospace engineer) and although grade 8 bolts do real well in
tension they are very brittle in shear and I used to break quite a few while
torquing them.
New studs, flat head/block and you should be okay. I've
used permatex 300 brushed in the gasket to help seal questionable blocks
with
good success. It does make the engine harder to clean up next time you do a
tear down.
good luck
John
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