Let me put this issue to rest. The brake light switch is not the problem.
I've been the owner for the past 8 years and yes it is a new switch (last
year)but was adjusted properly before this problem came up. I thank all of
you for your support and take all suggestions into consideration when trying
to solve a problem. The problem lies within the lines in this case.
Jim Schulte
Aquatic Coordinator Souderton S.D.
Co-Secretary Philadelphia MG Club
Co-Coordinator MG 2008
Eastern HS WP Officials Scheduler
>From: "Christian, Skip" <wellner.christian@navy.mil>
>To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brakes
>Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2007 10:50:13 -0500
>
>Group,
>
> These cars are now so old that most (if not all) have had the
>brake light switch replaced at least once. Who knows if the installer
>knew the replacement had to be adjusted.... I would not have known if
>not for what I read on this forum. So, after a new switch install (and
>an owner change?), the MGB owner has brake issues that require bleeding.
>Bleeding is not successful and so on.
> I believe Steve's E-Mail is right on. If it is that easy to
>check & adjust (and it is), before looking at anything else, to check
>the switch adjustment using the repair manual, or if the owner had no
>manual, to back the switch off until its not making contact with the
>pedal.
> It just seems to me that this is where everyone should start
>before they bleed their brakes for the first time or try to solve
>problems that could be caused by wrong master cylinder push rod length
>or pedal height adjustment. If I've missed something here, please let
>me know.
> Anyone know is a "slightly" misadjusted switch could cause
>dragging brakes & possibly warped rotors ?
>
>Thanks, Skip
>'74 B (CB)
>_______________________________________________
>schultejim@msn.com
>
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