Another thing people have done is get a bypass blanking thermostat (I've
done that). They are expensive at about $35 (from moss) when a run of the
mill thermostat is less then $5. What it does for you is this - when the
thermostat opens, a sleeve closes off the bypass that keeps coolant flow
during warm-up. That way all flow is diverted to the radiator for
cooling, none through the bypass. I think they're only available as 1600F
units. This does help if your cooling is marginal - if you have real
cooling problems, you will still have problems.
Phil Bates
'67 MGB
'58 MGA
misc others
> Might as well try it.
>
> Don't go the blanking sleeve route, though -- a lot of folks seem to have
> this kneejerk reaction to blame the thermostat, when if everything else
> was
> working right, the thermostat would not be an issue.
>
> Have you replaced the radiator diaphragm seal? It is important in
> directing
> the air through rather than over the radiator.
>
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
> on 6/29/06 12:24 PM, dave houser at mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>> How much air deflection, if any, do you think the front license plate
>> creates that would impede cooling?
>> You know my problem with a hot engined 67 BGT that I recently put A/ C
>> in. Several recommendations were made at MG2006, such as bringing the
>> condensor right against the radiator, possible use of the blanking
>> sleeve without a thermo, move the oil cooler under the valence, try 2
>> electric fans instead of one, etc.
>> Looking at the plate once I was home i wondered if that could be
>> disturbing air flow thru the grill into the condensor/radiator. It sits
>> pretty much right in front of the oil cooler and here in Florida we
>> don't need two plates on the cars.
>> What think? Any gain at all? I will try it and report back.
>> TIA,
>> Dave Houser
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