Thanks Bob-
Backed off to the 10lb cap and drove 120 miles round trip today. Had no trouble
from the cooling system.
Morning trip was fine - cool temps, pleasant ride, gauge stayed slightly below
"N." Afternoon trip was warm... not as pleasant and needle read at top of "N."
But no overheating...
I lost the coolant I added to top-off -- looks to be right where you indicate
is normal. Also picked up an aftermarket overflow tank today to avoid spraying
coolant all over the engine (and highway).
Only downside to the commute is sustained driving at 4000-4500 RPMs to keep up
with traffic on the interstate. May need to invest in an overdrive
transmission....
-Dan
71 BGT
> Hi Dan,
> Increasing cap pressure raises the temperature at which the coolant
> will boil.
> Increasing the cap pressure also increases the strain on the radiator,
> heater and other plumbing. Unless one sees a need to use a cap with
> pressure rating that is higher than MG specified, the original pressure
> cap would seem best to me.
> That your present cap leaks could be that its rubber seal is not
> complete, or its spring is weaker than its rating, or perhaps even that
> the radiator is too full of coolant. If the liquid level is about an
> inch down from bottom of filler neck, which puts it about 3/4 inch above
> the core in my '72 radiator, there is enough coolant in the system.
> Excess tends to purge itself through the overflow until the level has
> stabilised at an acceptable level. Some owners have fitted coolant
> recovery bottles to their overflow pipes. It's standard practice in all
> newer vehicles, and MG fitted them in 1976 (?) and later cars, but most
> cars of your and my years are running fine without them.
> Bob
>
>
--
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