On Apr 4, 2006, at 2:40 PM, Max Heim wrote:
> on 4/4/06 2:04 PM, Aaron Whiteman at awhitema@panix.com wrote:
>
> I don't see how the spring has anything to do with it. It has been
> awhile
> since I had to do this, but on cars in general one simply replaces
> shocks
> without messing with the springs (except in the case of McPherson
> struts, of
> course).
This was my assumption as well, but I wanted to confirm it before I
dug in. I wanted an idea of the amount of time I was committed to
getting things done.
Everybody that replied essentially verified I was on the right track,
including a reply from Peter C. of WWAP who gave me some most helpful
details on how to remove the linkage from the shock[0]. Thanks
Peter, my cores will be on a truck back to you soon!
> If the spring is flatter, than that is presumably reducing the total
> suspension travel, so I don't see how the shock could be damaged,
> even if
> the rebound strap is now apparently too long.
My straps are in good shape, and I verified this to be the case,
which is nice... one less thing I need to buy.
[0]: "The trick is to know that [the link arm fitting] IS tapered
(look at the replacement shock), and that it must be "squeezed" from
the hole rather than bashed. You want to hit the arm of the shock
smartly while supporting the other side of the arm on a vise or
anvil. This will momentarily oval the hole and "squeeze" the link
out. Of course, undo the nut first. I usually leave it partly on to
guard against an errant hammer blow." -- Peter C.
--
Aaron Whiteman -- http://www.panix.com/~awhitema/MG/
'75 B (red for now), HIF4 carbs
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