Folks,
I bought some cheap stuff from Car Quest and its formulation is probably
the same as Waxoyl (not Dinol/Dinitrol as they do not seem to use
wax???). I poured it into my sills with great difficulty even after
standing it in a hot bath! So I tried a bit mixed with thinners (mineral
spirits), It got runny and so I tested on a piece of metal. There seems
to be no difference between the thinned and non-thinned. The stuff just
sits there, does not dry, and ignores water. It forms a sort of soft
greasy film. However, it quickly dissolves in soap. So I am going to mix
a batch and pour into my sills. Incidentally, I put in one US gallon and
only got 1/2 gallon out though the drain hole !!!!
At 04:29 AM 5/4/2005, Paul Hunt wrote:
>Hi Don,
>
>Not used it myself but I think I recall reading that it does flow better
>than Waxoyl. But in my experience Waxoyl doesn't flow at all one sprayed,
>just sticks to whatever it hits, unless what it hits is hot to the touch.
>However getting some warm sunshine onto the panel then liquidises it and I'd
>expect it to flow as well as anything in its truly liquid state. The
>exception being the deep but narrow spaces between the sills and front and
>rear wing panel cover panels, with those it is asking too much for the
>Waxoyl to run down and adequately cover both panels, which is why I use
>engine oil there. I think its 'reflowing' capability is fine for seams
>elsewhere. Even with Dinitrol, unless you fill up those narrow cavities and
>then drain out the excess, I'd be surprised if it fully covered both faces.
>
>Cheers,
>Paul.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Don Malling" <dmallin@attglobal.net>
>To: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>
>Cc: "Barrie Robinson" <barrie@look.ca>; <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>;
><mgs@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Saturday, April 30, 2005 6:41 PM
>Subject: Re: Penetrating oil
>
>
> >
> > Hi Paul,
> >
> > What is your opinion of Dinitrol 3125?
> >
> > Don Malling
> >
> > Paul Hunt wrote:
> > > I've used Waxoyl for the sills and other box sections, but it does need
>to
> > > be thinned to liquid and/or sprayed on a hot day or it will stick where
>it
> > > hits and not run, that is if you can even get a spray out of the gun.
>But
> > > even several days or weeks after spraying, getting some decent sunshine
>onto
> > > the panel, will liquidise it and cause it to drip out of the drain
>holes.
> > > Needn't worry too much about getting to the tops of the box sections as
>they
> > > usually rot through at the bottom, but thin/hot enough to spray and
>using
> > > the purpose-made cavity adapter (a long plastic tube with a nail stuffed
>in
> > > the open end) will reach anyway. I have used clean engine oil at the
>front
> > > and rear sections of the sill where they are behind the front and rear
>wing
> > > cover panels as the gap is so narrow that Waxoyl tends to bridge the gap
>and
> > > not run down adequately, even in hot sunshine. Others have talked of
> > > sealing up all the drain holes and pouring clean engine oil in the top
>to
> > > fill the sills (don't forget there is an inner and an outer cavity) then
> > > draining it out. This can be reused in other cavities (probably not the
> > > engine or gearbox!) unless it has flushed out a load of water.
> > >
> > > PaulH.
>
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>
Regards
Barrie
Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
|