I feel that I must chime in on the slave pushrod travel comment. I've
been talking with Mr. Duvall outside of the list about his clutch
problems. I looked up proper amount of slave pushrod travel - it was
listed in an old moss catalog that I had (I think from 98 or 99 or so).
They had a whole section on how to diagnose clutch problems.
Here's my side note to Kelvin Dodd - Moss catalogs used to carry a ton of
technical tips - how to reverse polarity on a tach, how to diagnose clutch
problems, etc., etc. They now have a website that has a tech tips section,
but it appears to be write in's from people. It would be great to have
the old Moss tech tips in that area. I keep my old catalogs just for
reference at this point. I have a copy of the Original MGB (1962 - 1974),
and couldn't find the slave pushrod travel as quickly as I could in an old
moss catalog - I actually didn't find it at all in the Origianl MGB.
Anyhow, the proper amount of travel is 3/8". This is also the amount Mr.
Duvall has on his car. Everything seems to be checking out well on his
car, but actual operation when running. I relayed to him that I had a
similar experience a few years back, and that after taking out my engine
and transmission 4 times, I ended up taking the clutch parts to a local
jag mechanic that identified the new pressure plate as not good. I put
the old pressure plate back on, and all was well.
Phil Bates
'67 MGB
'58 MGA
> You should have about 1/2" to 5/8" of travel of the slave pushrod when the
> pedal is operated through its full travel. One cause of travel *less*
> than
> this is air in the hydraulics. These are generally reckoned to be a pig
> to
> bleed, so when I replaced my master, flex hose and slave I didn't even
> try,
> but filled the system from the slave bleed nipple using a Gunsons
> EeziBleed
> on very low pressure. This got me the full travel straight away with no
> bleeding. Any system of reverse filling or bleeding should achieve the
> same
> result.
|