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RE: Master Cylinder

To: "'mgs'" <mgs@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: RE: Master Cylinder
From: "James Nazarian" <jhn3@uakron.edu>
Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2005 19:10:14 -0500
I agree here, in my experience if the MC is leaking at one of the fittings
it has always been the flare on the line that went bad.  I don't fully
understand why they spontaneously go bad but they do sometimes.  Again, in
my experience, most auto store flaring tools cannot double flare auto store
brake line.  The double flare is the proper flare to use on a brake line, it
resembles a normal flare except that the tubing turns back in at the end of
the flare to create two layers of metal on the sealing surface; this makes
it much less susceptible to blowout.  The lines sold at auto parts stores
are all thick steel and all most auto store benders will do is slip and
score the outside of the tubing.

I really like working with the cuppro-nickel lines such as the ones moss
uses in their brake kits, they are easy to work with and can be double
flared without hydraulic tools.  However, it is very hard to find anyone
that sells that line in reasonable quantities.


James Nazarian
71 MGBGT V8
71 MGB Tourer
87 BMW 325es
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Bullwinkle
Sent: Thursday, January 06, 2005 4:39 PM
To: James Schulte
Cc: mgs
Subject: Re: Master Cylinder

All of the steel brake lines I've encountered on older MGs use flare
fittings.  The pipe doesn't seal at the threads of the nut.  It seals
because there is a sort of "gasket" rolled onto the end of the brake line.
Unless the threads in the housing or stripped, the best, and easiest repair,
is to replace the brake line.  You can purchase a flaring tool to reflare
the existing line, but unless you plan on using it again replacing the line
is better.  Many auto parts have brake lines with the fittings in common
lengths of 12", 14", etc.  Measure how long yours is, and buy the same
length.  Just make sure the threads of the new fitting nuts are the same as
those on the B.  Make sure the area inside the master cylinder where the
line goes doesn't have any pitting on the "seat" where the brake line flare
seals.

To empty a master cylinder, I've found a basting syringe very useful.  I
keep one in the tool box for that use and other small "siphoning" jobs.

Blake




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