mgs
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: Ignition Lock woes - Resolved!

To: Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>, mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Ignition Lock woes - Resolved!
From: Chris K <ckotting@wideopenwest.com>
Date: Wed, 02 Jun 2004 23:25:22 -0400
I ended up answering my own question by poking around a bit this 
evening.  In case anyone else gets caught the same way I did (key broken 
off in ignition), on a 1500 Midget, here's how to resolve it:

Unbolt steering column from body (3 bolts, 9/16" head, 1 nut in engine 
compartment, other 2 under dash).  Save the washers and remember their 
order.

Undo the 2 screws holding the cowling halves together and the 2 holding 
the cowling to the steering coulmn (back at the dash, you may have to 
tug down on the column to get access).

Your adversary is now exposed.  Remove a small Phillips head grub screw 
on the bottom of the steering column lock on the left side.  This will 
release the electrical switch part of the mechanism.  Remove it, and 
unplug the single lead for the "you keft the keys in" beeper on the 
right side facing you.  Tape them up out of the way.

Taking a trusty Dremel (tm) tool with a cut-off wheel fitted, cut slots 
in the two screws holding the top strap of the lock housing to the 
bottom section.  The screws look like domed rivets with rough spots in 
the center of the dome (the heads are designed to shear off when 
tightened, to prevent taking the screws out easily).   Here again, you 
may need to tug down on the steering column to get clearance.  Once the 
slots are cut, take out the screws.  A right-angle screwdriver helps here.

Once the screws are out, take the bottom section over to your 
workbench.  Inspect the cylinder on the side the key goes in.  There is 
a brass-colored pin that retains the lock cylinder in the housing.  You 
can drill it out if you're VERY good with a drill press and fine bits, 
or you can drill just on either side a bit and grab it with good needle 
nose-pliers and extract it.  The housing is softer metal than the pin, 
so if you try to drill the pin out, be careful.

Once the pin is removed, you can wiggle/finesse/tap/coax out the lock 
cylinder.  If the broken bit of the key is still in the cylinder and you 
can get it to the "0" position, you can easily poke it out.

Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.  If you drilled out the pin, 
you will need to manufacture a substitute.  If you got it out 
successfully, reuse it and add a dab of Loctite.  The two bolts are 
5/16" - 18 TPI, 1 to 1-1/4" long.

On a time spent to $ saved calculation, "We Tight" wins here, as the 
replacement parts run $130 - $150 and this took about 1 1/2 hours, not 
counting the time I spent writing the process up.

G'night , all.

Chris K.





<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>
  • Re: Ignition Lock woes - Resolved!, Chris K <=