It is normal for them to need full choke to start even in the (UK at least)
summer. They are all different but mine must then be pushed back half-way
immediately after starting or it is way too rich. It can only be pushed
fully home once it has warmed up for a few minutes. Again, trying to push
the choke fully home on a cold but correctly adjusted engine *will* cause it
to stall.
Have you set the carbs to their starting position i.e. screw the jets up
until they are flush with the bridge then down two full turns of either the
nut (HS) or screw (HIF)? Another aspect is that maybe you don't have the
idle screws open far enough to maintain an idle even when warm.
You do need the vacuum line connected, but it isn't going to make that much
difference open. I have had a much larger port open to atmosphere - the
brake servo vacuum pipe - and the engine would still run albeit badly.
Neither would I expect a gasket leak to have that much effect if the inlet
manifold is anywhere near the head! What can cause a vacuum leak big enough
to stop things is if the welch plug on either end of the inlet manifold
'tube' has dropped out, you will never see the back one but you can feel it.
If you can start it and keep it running with full choke then you really
should be able to hear any vacuum leak as a whistling for a small leak, or
like an intake roar for a large one.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: <BarrMark262@aol.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2004 2:08 AM
Subject: What I don't know about carbs.-long, sorry
> I am only able to start the engine on my project 74B with the choke
> completely activated. As soon as the choke is pushed in, the engine
dies.( Engine and
> carbs rebuilt by the "pros.")
|