Only by replicating the conditions on the car, which is where the Workshop
Manual gets its figures from, so there doesn't seem much point. The first
thing to do is eliminate the dynamo by disconnecting the loom and connecting
its D and F terminals together. Slowly increase the engine speed from idle
watching a voltmeter connected to the bridged terminals and ground. It
should rise towards 20v, don't go above this figure, and it should happen by
1000 rpm. These figures are for an MGB. Then do the same with the wires at
the F and D terminals on the control box to eliminate that part of the
wiring. Unless you can get a consistent reading like that there is no point
checking the control box any further.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Simon Matthews" <simon_atwork@hotmail.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2004 7:29 AM
Subject: Bench testing regulator
> Does anyone have any instructions on bench testing an electro-mechanical
> regulator ("control unit")?
>
> The wierd results were that when performing the standard test (disconnect
> the A and A1 wires from the control unit, short them together, then
measure
> the voltage on the D terminal) -- the voltage initially fluctuated to
> somewhere around 14-16 volts, then dropped to around 4. After that, the
> voltage would fluctuate, but never get anywhere near 12V.
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