Thanks all for the advice...
On Jan 6, 2004, at 2:37 PM, Lew Palmer wrote:
> If you do a compression check (the first step), do it dry first. Then
> squirt
> a couple of teaspoons of engine oil and repeat the test. If there is no
> significant change in the pressure, you likely have confirmed a valve
> problem.
I had already done this and pulled the head before I wrote :)
> A head off is required in either case, so have a good look-see. My bet
> is
> that you will find something stuck under the valve. Certainly Phil is
> correct in that it is easier to do an engine job once instead of
> twice, but
> my philosophy has been that if it works, don't fix it. When you are
> prepared
> to do the total overhaul both physically and financially, then do it.
I was able to remove the valve in question last night, and discovered
carbon that was interfering with valve operation building up on and
around the valve seat. However, I also discovered that the valve guide
tolerance is extremely tight. I could not remove the valve without
help, and cannot reinstall at all.
Something tells me this isn't right. Just to be safe, I am going to
take the head to be properly machined (I don't have the resources to do
it myself). The carbon buildup in #2 was no worse than the other
cylinders, so I am going to assume that whatever happened there will
happen in the others as well, so just to be safe, I am going to have
them work on the entire head.
--
Aaron Whiteman -- http://www.wsu.edu/~aaronpw/MG/
'75 B (red for now), headless
--
Aaron Whiteman
Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from
magic. -- Arthur C. Clarke
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