All,
Still stuck. While working on this I found that the
hose below the choke was leaking so I had to replace
that. Also, while looking at the no start problem, I
saw that the throttle cable was adjusted incorrectly
and did not allow full movement of the throttle when
you pressed on the gas. Perhaps the choke was not
engaging at all??? Here are the symptoms and what I
have tried:
* Car ran fine, I brought it to a mechanic to have the
gasket between the cat conv and the exaust manifold
replaced (and have it inspected). Car ran fine 2
times after than and now I can't get it to start. I
think they screwed up the cable adjustment...did they
have to take the carb off to replace the gasket???
* First thing I noticed is that when you turn the key,
the fuel pump just keeps clicking and clicking. It
used to pressurize and then slow or stop all together
from what I remember.
* I broke the fuel line on the carb side of the fuel
filter. Fuel pump pumps fine. I plugged this end and
when you turn the key, it just keeps clicking and
clicking. I really don't think it did this before.
* I checked for spark (only at one plug) and it is
sparking fine.
* At one point, while messing with the choke, the carb
mixture and having my wife crank, I got the car to
start, but it ran horribly. I probably have screwed
up the mixture at this point.
* The markings on the existing fuel pump are:
AC Spark Plug
EP12S
6442340
12V
Made In USA
* This pump has been on the car for the 7 years I have
owned it.
I know I haven't done everything people have
suggested. What should I do next???
Tom
77B, ZS carb
--- "Telewest (PH)" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>
wrote:
> For the continual clicking clamp off the rubber hose
> to the carb. If that
> stops it the float valve is leaking, if not then
> either the non-return
> valves in the pump are faulty or it isn't an SU
> pump.
>
> For a non-starter the first thing I do it put a
> timing light (12v type with
> inductive pickup is best) on the coil lead and each
> plug lead and check for
> flashing. If you get it on the coil lead but not
> the plug leads the cap
> and/or rotor are faulty. Breaking down plugs can
> also cause non-flashing on
> the plug leads, but not usually on all at the same
> time. The timing light
> will also allow you to check the timing is
> approximately right, somewhere
> around 10 degrees BTDC should be enough to start.
> Next I'd remove a plug or
> two. If no fuel smell there is no fuel getting
> through. If wet it is
> flooded, which you can usually smell when cranking
> except possibly outside
> on a windy day. They should smell strongly of fuel
> but be dry, unless you
> have cranked it so much you *have* flooded it. Note
> that a sticking float
> valve could well cause an over-rich mixture and
> flooding. Also note that a
> blocked float chamber overflow pipe will prevent the
> float from rising and
> stopping the pump, and fuel will be pumped straight
> up out of the jet and
> into the inlet manifold, again flooding.
>
> A faulty choke choking too much on a hot start will
> probably cause flooding,
> but I wouldn't have thought so on a 'cold' engine
> unless in a hot State.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tom McLaughlin" <tmcl98@yahoo.com>
> To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, October 24, 2003 8:07 PM
> Subject: 77B won't start
>
>
> > Because of a newborn in June, I've put woefully
> few
> > miles on my B this driving season. Now it won't
> >...
>
>
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