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Re: Headlight Question

To: Scott & Lynn Hower <howersl@att.net>, mlennan@crankyrobots.com
Subject: Re: Headlight Question
From: Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2003 19:33:13 +0100
That's why I added a relay for the H4's.
The kights switches are not the best - overhere in the Netherlands the
original 1971 type is nla, so I had to put a later type in.

When switching to H4's, do this including a for these lamps suitable lamp
unit.
If not so, you'll surely blind the other traffic.
Overhere H4's into a "wrong" lamp unit is reason for MOT test failure.

Cheers,

Hans

'71 BGT

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott & Lynn Hower" <howersl@att.net>
To: <mlennan@crankyrobots.com>
Cc: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 4:08 AM
Subject: RE: Headlight Question


> > From: "Mark Lennan" <mlennan@crankyrobots.com>
> >
> > I would like to switch out my stock (79B) sealed beam high/lows with a
> set
> > of higher output Halogens.  Stock output is (I believe) 55w Low Beam /
> 60w High Beam.
> > If I go with an 80w/100w system, will I need a relay ?  As the relay
> kits are $40+,
> > and I'm already going to spend $100+ on the buckets/bulbs, I'm a
> little hesitant to
> > spend more on something I may not need. My bookkeeper (...wife...) is
> urging me to
> > not spend...
>
> > Any advice/experience would help.
>
> Mark-
>
> I upgraded my MGB lights to Cibie' "E-code" 80/100w H4s recently.  These
> are significantly brighter that sealed beam halogens.  They also have a
> sharply defined lowbeam cutoff so you will not blind oncoming traffic.
> In terms of usable light output, the fluting design of the headlight
> lens is more important than running "overwattage" bulbs.
>
> I added a pair of Hella relays and ran heavier gauge fused
> wiring/grounds, all from British Wiring.  The photo isn't the best, but
> here's where I put them: http://home.att.net/~howersl/mg/relays.jpg
>
> Some folks insist it is a bad idea to fuse the headlight circuit.  I
> wired the beams independently and have 10watt citylights inside the
> headlight just in case.  I would not run 80/100 watt H4 bulbs through my
> 25 yr old wiring/headlight switch.  Besides not being able to supply
> adequate current for the bulbs, you are likely to melt the headlight
> switch.  Just my opinion...
>
> If you want an expert's advice, go here http://lighting.mbz.org or here
> http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/relays/relays.html for automotive lighting.
>
>
> --Scott




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